Monthly Archives: June 2013

Ceduna – Day 2

Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2013 by shorty

After a beautiful sunset last night and a walk on the beach, we had just settled down to dinner and the skies opened up – our rain cloud had found us again! The drumming of the rain on the roof didn’t stop us both having a great sleep after our long day on the road.

Today has gone from bright sunshine to squally rain and back again all day. Quite unpleasant!

This morning we headed out to Thevenard to visit the fresh fish processors as Ann was dying to get some fresh fish. Both factories appeared to be closed, much to Ann’s huge disappointment. However, on our way back into Ceduna, there was a large funeral underway and we suspect there might be a connection.

Anyway, Bill’s fish and chicken shop [next door to Bill’s pizza and pasta] advertises that they cook up local fish so I placated Ann with a serve of fresh grilled fish and salad, cooked by Bill. It was delicious so we were very happy campers again.

We also visited IGA to do some shopping for the next several days as there is not likely to be a supermarket where we are heading. And yes, we finally got some milk!

Between rain storms we had a bit more of a walk around the caravan park. With the weather we’ve had we are very pleased that we were allocated such a nice large and protected site.

The amenities blocks here are quite different to what we have seen before on this trip. Each small block includes a couple of toilets, plus a family bathroom, and a couple of shower/toilet combinations. They are even netted to keep out the flies and make one’s visit a more pleasant experience. All are very clean and well maintained.

It has been nice to have a slow day and come back to our comfortable, cosy van to sit and read out of the weather. With a limited range of TV channels here, a DVD might be the go this evening.

Ceduna Day 2

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: ceduna

Nuttbush to Ceduna, SA

Posted on Monday, June 10, 2013 by shorty

We woke to a bright sunny day and packed up and left Nuttbush Retreat by 9.00 am. I finished my tablets from Broken Hill yesterday so I was feeling pretty good and we decided to take advantage of [hopefully] quieter roads on a public holiday and travel a bit further than usual.

We drove west along the Eyre Highway past Iron Knob and on through Lake Gillies Conservation Park.

Our first stop was at Kimba which is a very welcoming, clean town. Kimba has an eight metre giant Galah and signs everywhere remind travellers that they are half way across Australia. We enjoyed our coffee and shared a snack from the bakery while talking to some other travellers who had stopped next to us. We also re-fuelled in Kimba. This is the first time since Peterborough. We are glad we had the long range fuel tank installed and very happy with our fuel efficiency at this stage of our journey.

Views of Kimba

Kimba – Half Way Across Australia

Morning Tea at the Big Galah in Kimba

The day continued to warm up to 24 degrees and by lunchtime we were down to t-shirts. We stopped at Wudinna East Rest Area for a quick lunch and a stretch. Then on to Poochera Rest Area for another break and stretch and on to Puntabie East Rest area for another break and stretch before we finally arrived at Shelly Beach Caravan Park in Ceduna.

Silos and Water Pipe Along the Way

Monument to the Australian Farmer at Wudinna

Lots of Bushland Along the Way

First Glimpse of Ceduna

Sunset at Shelly Beach Caravan Park Ceduna

It has been a long day and we travelled 447 kms. This is a great spot and we wandered down to the beach to watch the sunset. It will be an early night tonight and we plan to stay a couple of days to enjoy this great find.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: ceduna, kimba, nuttbush retreat

Nuttbush – Day 2

Posted on Sunday, June 9, 2013 by shorty

Today started off cold and cloudy but by 9.30 am it was a fantastic warm sunny day. We had to find our warm weather gear which was good. There were several other vehicles who camped here last night and all left this morning but we decided to stay another day.

Early Morning at Nuttbush

Sheep Yards at Nuttbush

Our plan for this morning was to drive 35 or so kilometres into Iron Knob to explore the town and buy some milk. There is a sign on the highway advertising counter meals at the pub so we thought that that might also be an option. As soon as we turned off the highway and the ute was facing town we knew that our day was not going to plan!!!

The welcome board looked tired and had graffiti. The next thing that we saw was the Motel and our photo says it all. We have never seen a town with so much damage and rubbish. All of the shops seemed to be shut or closed down except the Post office / General Store but that had metal grills and looked closed and very uninviting. We drove slowly around the whole town thinking that we must just be in the wrong area, but no, it was all as bad and depressing.

We found the Pub and again our photo says it all. We were only 75 kms from Port Augusta which is a bustling busy mining town but this mining town is beyond words. We checked out the Free Camp where we had intended to stay before we found Nuttbush and yes, it had a brick well painted toilet block, a dump point, a camp kitchen and a flat parking area……BUT……..Oh Dear!!!!

The mine tours were not available on the weekend and we suspect that the mine is closed as everything looked very dilapidated even though there are apparently still a couple of hundred people living here.

Welcome to Iron Knob

Iron Knob – Birthplace of the Australian Steel Industry

Dilapidated Mine

Never Believe Travel Brochures!

Tours Start at Whyalla ??? 95 km away?

Iron Knob Tourist Centre – Closed at Weekends

Views of Iron Knob

No Meals Today

More Views of Iron Knob

Buckingham Shack !

Toilet Block at Iron Knob Free Camp

Camp Kitchen at Iron Knob Free Camp

We decided that we could live without buying milk (well actually we couldn’t even find a shop selling milk) and headed back to the station for a coffee while we drooled over our maps, planning the next stage of our adventure. The weather was so good that we opened all of the windows in the van to let it air. We are now in the land of red dust and those annoying little flies that get in behind your sunglasses, so we decided to sit inside behind fly screens to enjoy our hot paella for lunch.

Just after lunch, more vans started to enter this park and while Ann was hanging out some washing we had a good chat to some travellers who have just come across the Nullabor. It was good to hear about their travels and reassuring that the road is good and that there are plenty of free camps along the way. The laundry and clothes line got a real workout today with the good weather and travellers from the Nullabor.

I also had a good chat to one of the owners of the park. It turns out that one of the things they are trying here is to feed-lot their sheep. Essentially that means that rather than let the sheep try to find enough food out in the dry paddocks they spend more time in the yards with controlled feeding. The theory is that they will fatten up better. Things are pretty tough out here and we wish the Nutt family well with their new venture. The whole time we’ve been here they have been working very hard.

Here are some of Ann’s photos of the camp kitchen and shearers’ quarters at Nuttbush.

Updated Shearers’ Quarters

Courtyard Outside Camp Kitchen

Camp Kitchen View

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: iron knob, nuttbush retreat

Peterborough to Nuttbush “City Limits”

Posted on Saturday, June 8, 2013 by shorty

This morning started out cold but the weather soon upgraded to fine and sunny. We set off early from Peterborough as it is the start of a long weekend and we knew that there would be holiday traffic. We drove through Orroroo to Wilmington Centenary Park for morning tea. Another family had the same idea and we all stood in the sun and enjoyed a coffee and a chat. They were travelling from Whyalla to Peterborough to take their young son Dillon to the Steamtown Heritage Rail Museum and he was really looking forward to it.

From there we headed to Port Augusta through some breathtaking scenery. This really is picture postcard scenery – Mt Remarkable National Park, Mt Brown Conservation Park and the Flinders Ranges – even more special on such a warm sunny day!

En Route to Port Augusta

Historic Lutheran Church

Horrocks Pass

We drove about 40 kms past Port Augusta on the Eyre Highway towards Iron Knob to Nuttbush Retreat based at Pandurra Station, which is a sheep and cattle working station which has diversified its business by setting up a rustic Caravan Park in a front Paddock next to the Woolshed. Reception is in the Woolshed beside a very rustic licensed dining room.

Nuttbush Retreat at Pandurra Station

Some shearer’s quarters have been dressed up for motel style accommodation. There is a swimming pool for better weather, plus an undercover “Baa Baa Q” area. The amenities are good and the camp kitchen has to be seen to be believed. It looks like it is in an original building (well over 100 years old) with original wood fired cooker and benches 4 inches thick but it is very clean, functional and inviting if you are not self contained. There is also a big Recreation room with a full sized billiard table and open fireplace.

After unhitching and setting up the caravan we drove back to Port Augusta to have a good look around. We spent a bit of time at the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens and the Matthew Flinders Red Cliff Lookout which was very well set up and most informative. After that we returned to the van for a rest before dinner.

Port Augusta

Port Augusta Marina

Unique Sundial at Australian Arid Lands Botanical Garden

Sturt Desert Pea at Australian Arid Lands Botanical Garden

Matthew Flinders Red Cliffs – Port Augusta

Oh Dear !! Roadkill.

We have a nice level gravelled powered spot with breath-taking views to the Flinders Ranges and all for $28 per night on a long weekend!!! Unfortunately the dining room and bar is closed tonight so we’re having home made pizza in the van!

Still living the dream!

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: iron knob, nuttbush retreat, peterborough, port augusta

Peterborough – Day 2

Posted on Friday, June 7, 2013 by shorty

We woke to a fine sunny morning so we headed off into town on foot. It is only about a 20 minute walk through the park that we explored yesterday and then several blocks to the railway. To our surprise, when we reached the railway line there was a subway which was built in 1900 because there were between 100 and 120 trains per day going through Peterborough (or Petersburg as it was known then.). Today, the subway has murals of the local area painted all along and it was convenient but there are very few trains per day now.

When we arrived in town, we decided to start at one end and work our way around. It is a quaint town proud of its busy rail history and sandstone buildings.

Peterborough Hotel

Federal Hotel

Junction Hotel

Railway Hotel

Street Artwork

Visitor Information Centre in Railway Carriage

There is some farming and virtually no industry today so Peterborough, like so many country towns now, is heavy reliant on tourism. The locals certainly make you feel welcome. We stopped for a coffee and home made biscuits at the Take a Break coffee shop and then went on to the Tourist Information Centre which is housed in a refurbished rail carriage.

We viewed the Peterborough Patchworker’s Federation Wall Hanging housed in the Foyer of the Town Hall. It took in excess of 1700 hours to complete and was constructed to commemorate the Federation of Australia. We also visited Meldenfield’s History and Heritage in Miniature. There were some amazing hand crafted scale miniatures. The Scale miniature of the old Petersburg Station was even crafted out of the bricks and stone from the old building which was demolished in the 1960’s.

Federation Quilt

Miniature Petersburg Station

After walking for 2 hours we were about to head back to the van when it started to rain. Change of plans – we went into the nearest hotel for lunch. We entered the Peterborough Hotel and found a table near a heater as we had not brought coats and by this stage we were cold and wet. Our meals were delicious and very reasonably priced.

By the time we had finished our lunch it had stopped raining and the sun was out again so we decided to walk a bit further out of town to the big Steamtown Heritage Rail Museum. We were very pleased that we did because it was really interesting. We spent an hour and a half walking around the rail yards and climbing up and down in and out of steam engines and diesel engines and train carriages. Our guide made it very interesting.

One vehicle that caught my eye was a 1937 Morris Inspection Car. The Morris had been converted to run on rails so the wheels had been replaced, and the steering wheel had been removed. To fit in the rear railway wheels the back seat had to be raised so the roof of the car was raised as well – and a superb bit of body-work it was. The inspection car also featured a very early mobile phone, which connected to the overhead cables and was therefore “mobile”.

Steamtown Heritage Rail Centre

Triple Guage Turntable

Some of the Steam Engines

Morris Motor Inspection Car showing mobile phone on back bumper

Morris Motor Inspection Car

After 5 hours mostly on our feet, we headed back to the van rather tired. A light tea and early to bed to prepare for another driving day tomorrow.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: peterborough

Broken Hill to Peterborough, SA

Posted on Thursday, June 6, 2013 by shorty

As we were both keen to leave Broken Hill, we decided to forego the free pancakes on offer for breakfast at the Caravan Park and hit the road. We left Broken Hill early [for us] and headed west on the Barrier Highway towards Port Augusta in SA.

What is Creeping?

Our first morning break was at Cutana Rest Area. As we pulled off the road we were rather surprised to find a vehicle draped in police tape. I checked it out thoroughly for bullet holes and blood, but found nothing too exciting. We figured things were safe so we proceeded to park and enjoyed a coffee and a stretch – all the time imagining what terrible thing may have happened.

Abandoned Ute

We then continued along the highway. It was overcast but a very good driving day. We stopped at Yunta Centennial Park for lunch. This seemed to be a busy stopping place for nomads like us. I spent a while discussing overnight options with a fellow traveler.

Yunta Hotel

Lunch at Yunta Centennial Park

As we continued along the Barrier Highway after lunch the skies turned very black. Our rain cloud had found us! We decided to pull off and checked out a couple of free camps but they already had surface water so we continued to Peterborough Caravan Park which is like paradise after Broken Hill.

We parked without unhitching and put on our coats and went exploring. The Caravan Park is very nice and clean and inviting and it is next to Victoria Park which has a lake full of ducks. It is a great spot. The Caravan Park owner gave us a run down on the town and we can’t wait to explore further tomorrow.

Artwork outside the Gents

Artwork outside the Ladies (note the FJ)

Ducks at Victoria Park came to greet us

Interesting facts about Peterborough:

It is 240 km from Adelaide.
It has a population of 2000.
The Indian Pacific goes through the town 4 times a week.
It is 10 kms from Yongala which is the coldest place in SA.
It is home to the Steamtown Heritage Rail Museum

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: broken hill, peterborough

Broken Hill – Day 4

Posted on Wednesday, June 5, 2013 by shorty

The weather was pretty miserable all day today. No actual rain, but just dull grey, windy and very cold.

I started my day by going back the hospital for a follow-up visit. Although I had only been on the tablets for 2 days, the doctor was pleased with the extent to which the swelling had gone down. He said to complete the original prescription and to get the repeat filled to have on hand just in case. Very practical doctor.

Meanwhile Ann stayed back in the caravan doing some book-work. When I got back we spent a bit of time trying to sort out an issue with my credit card. I was embarrassed when my card was declined. A call to the bank today revealed that my card had in fact been blocked due to a suspected fraudulent transaction, but no-one had told me. So a new card has been issued which I will receive in due course. Not a fun way to spend an hour or two I can assure you! And it was all on the mobile from Broken Hill!

After a quick lunch in the caravan, we had a look at the Pro Hart gallery. Parked out the front are several of his Bentleys and Rolls Royces, including the famous painted Rolls.

The approach to the Pro Hart gallery

Painted Bentley by Pro Hart

Then we drove to the BHP Miners Memorial. This is a huge steel structure built as a memorial to the 816 workers who have died in the BHP mines since 1883. Names are listed by year, and include the name, age, and cause of death. The youngest we say was aged 12 and the oldest was 78. Causes of death were quite horrific and included death in explosions, suffocation, buried in pits, and so on. The last death recorded was in 2007, which is actually since we were last here. It is a very sober reminder about industrial safety.

Miners’ Memorial

Floral tribute to each fallen miner

Old mine near Memorial

Broken Hill sure ain’t flat

We then dropped into the supermarket for fresh supplies and drinking water and then back to the caravan to hitch up and prepare for our departure tomorrow.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: broken hill

Broken Hill – Day 3

Posted on Tuesday, June 4, 2013 by shorty

After a cold early morning, it turned out to be a fine cloudy day. My face is still swollen but we decided to drive 25 kms to Silverton for the day.

The road to Silverton is renowned for its dips. One Gallery in Silverton is called Beyond the 39 Dips but we are sure that there are a lot more than 39! We bounced along past the Day Dream Silver Mine, until we came to the old Tramway Station on the outskirts of Silverton.

The first of many dips in the road

Arriving at Silverton

Old Tramway Station

Our second stop was Penrose Park where we had planned to stay. With all of the rain we changed our mind and stayed in Broken Hill. Just as well. Penrose Park would be a great stop but not earlier this week. Parts were still under water and it looked like the road to the park had been closed or at least under water. We would like to go back another time.

We headed into town and stopped to look at the Municipal Offices building when a donkey came trotting towards us and braying. We greeted him and he just stopped and watched us and waited until we got back into the ute. Then he came over to the window to say goodbye. Very friendly!

This guy came to greet us

Got up close and personal

The old Municipal Offices

We then drove around past the Silverton Hotel and up the hill to the Mad Max Museum. I spent some time in there while Ann went for a browse through the Art Galleries around the corner. It is a very quiet eerie town now but it would have been all hustle and bustle in its Hey Day. Click Here to see other photos from my visit to the Mad Max Museum.

Interceptor Love Child outside Silverton Hotel

Outdoor bar area at Silverton Hotel

Stage in the outdoor bar area

Inside the hotel

Mad Max Museum

Charming old cottage still standing

Local artwork

Same artist different canvas

Different artist same style canvas

By the time that I had finished at the museum and Ann had returned from the galleries, it was lunch time so we decided to try the Café on the hill. Excellent choice! We both had a hearty bowl of Drovers Beef Stew with damper and a plunger of very good coffee. It was VERY good!

Silverton Cafe

After lunch we drove to Mundi Mundi Look out, which has also featured in a number of movies, then on to Umberumberka Reservoir. This was built in 1915 and still supplies water to Broken Hill. It is huge.

We did a lot of walking today and I was pretty tired so Ann drove us home.

Horses roam free at Silverton

View from Reservoir over Mundi Mundi

Camels roaming beside the road

Look who’s driving

Other Interesting facts about the Broken Hill / Silverton Region:

Broken Hill has among the worlds largest Silver–Lead–Zinc mineral deposits.

In 1880 the nearby town of Silverton was established and was, in its heyday, a booming mining town with a population of 3000. Today Silverton is a ghost town with a population of about 60.

The Trade Union Movement originated in Silverton in 1884 with the formation of the Barrier Ranges Miners’ Association of Australasia. Under the banner “United we stand. Divided we fall” unionism was born in the region.

The Broken Hill Proprietary Company LTD (BHP) was formed in the Silverton Hotel in 1885 and became Australia’s largest mining company.

The Hotel and the Silverton area has featured in a number of movies including Mad Max and A Town Like Alice.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: broken hill, silverton

Broken Hill – Day 2

Posted on Monday, June 3, 2013 by shorty

We had two surprises his morning.

Firstly, we had hoped that by travelling some 300 km North from Buronga/Mildura that the temperature would get a bit warmer. Unfortunately it was cold and very foggy here early this morning but by 9 am, the sun was out and there was the promise of a nice day coming up. Despite clear blue skies and a few puffy white clouds, it only got to about 15 degrees.
Second surprise was that I woke with a very swollen ear and a big swelling down the side of my face (the same side of face that was affected by the shingles). Change of plans. We spent the morning at Broken Hill Base Hospital. No one knows what has happened but I have tablets to take and they asked me to come back on Wednesday. Bugger! Anywhere but here (the walls are plastered with signs about Hep-C and bottles of hand-wash are all over the place). They were good at the hospital but even while we were there, there was a violent incident with a couple of young guys, one of whom put their fist through the wall!

Broken Hill Base Hospital

While I was waiting in Emergency Ann had a bit of a wander around the hospital and was very impressed by some quilts on display.

Broken Hill Base Hospital Display Quilts

Ann extended our booking here and we will just have to cross our fingers and hope that my problem goes away in the next few days.

After sitting around in the hospital waiting rooms for hours we needed to get outside and walk, so mid-afternoon we went to The Broken Hill Sculptures and Living Desert Sanctuary. It is an interesting place and you get a fantastic view of the Broken Hill region from the lookout.

Broken Hill Desert Living Sculpture

They really don’t want you to use this entrance!

Our gorgeous grand-daughter Alex asked Ann why Broken Hill was called “Broken Hill” so we made it our business to find out. Well, in 1844, the explorer Charles Sturt saw and named the Barrier Range, and at the time referred to a ‘broken hill” in his diary. The ‘broken hill’ that Sturt referred to in his diary actually comprised a number of hills that appeared to have a break in them. The ‘broken hill’ no longer exists as Silver was discovered in the hills in 1883 by a boundary rider called Charles Rasp and since then the hills have been mined away. Good question Alex!

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: broken hill

Buronga to Broken Hill

Posted on Sunday, June 2, 2013 by shorty

Although we suffered through rain and wind overnight, this morning promised to be a nice day in Buronga and a check of the weather bureau indicated that the weather in Broken Hill would also be fine. So that settled where we would head today.

Packing Up in the sun at Buronga

We took our time packing up and left by 10 am. We drove through Wentworth and on to the Silver City Highway until we stopped at Bunnerungee Bridge rest area for our morning break. Our Camps 7 Book told us that the rest stop catered for Big Rigs so we trustingly drove in and then realised that we were below the bridge over the creek and that the area had had 3 inches of rain in the last 48 hours. Fortunately as we moved forward (because we were too big to turn around) we realised that there are 2 bridges and that the water was under the second bridge. We drove further to explore this very interesting spot. We would be happy to free camp here. We enjoyed our coffee.

Coffee at Bunnerungee Bridge Rest Area

We walked and stretched a bit and then continued up the Silver City Highway to our lunch stop at Popiltah Rest Area. This is also a good spot. We pulled off the black top to a spot with a great view of Lake Popiltah. Because of the surface water and muddy conditions we engaged 4wd to get out and back on to the black top, but it was worth it to have lunch with a view.

View over Lake Popiltah

We then continued up the Silver City Highway to Broken Hill. There were lots of Emus, wild goats and sheep grazing beside the road. Because it was Sunday, we only passed 1 large truck all day which was very good.

Highway Views

Wild Goats by the Highway

Although we had considered staying at a free camp at the Racecourse, we decided to stay at the Broken Hill Tourist Park because of the amount of surface water everywhere after the heavy rain of the last 48 hours.

Welcome to Broken Hill

It has been sunny and warm in the ute today but there is a strong cold wind outside. Strong wind and mud and some rain forecast for tonight – not a nice combination.

Unhitching at Broken Hill

We were all set up in our big drive through site at Broken Hill by 3 pm. It is a bit of a worry that there are signs everywhere saying “Secure Your Belongings!” and the Caravan Park is surrounded by a high weldmesh fence with triple barbed wire around the top! Says a lot about where we are!

When we arrived the sun was streaming in to the lounge area of the van so we had a cuppa and reviewed the maps of the Broken Hill area.

Revived, we headed into town in the ute to explore the city and get our bearings. After a quick trip to the Visitor Information Centre to pick up some maps and brochures, we lashed out on take away roast chicken and roast potatoes for tea as we are pretty tired after our drive today.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: broken hill, buronga