Monthly Archives: June 2014

Days 29 to 38 – Townsville – Highlights

We’ve been in Townsville for just over a week now, so it’s probably about time that we give our fellow Adventurers a bit of an update.

We’re going to be in Townsville for around 6 weeks so we’re not going to be sightseeing every single day and we do want to share some of those experiences with the family once they get here. Equally, we’re not going to bore you with stories of broken cupboard door magnets and the subsequent trip to Bunnings, etc.

Sunday Market

We really enjoy the Townsville Cotters Sunday market. Flinders Street in the Townsville CBD is closed off for a couple of blocks and street stalls of all sorts are set up for the morning. There are local handicrafts and clothing, street entertainers, plus most of the retail shops are open as well. What really attracts us is the amazing range of fresh fruit and vegetables – much of which we don’t see at home and some of which we simply don’t recognise.

Food Stalls at Sunday Market

Food Stalls at Sunday Market

On our first Sunday here there was a Scottish pipe band parade down Flinders Street through the market. The bagpipes certainly bought back memories from my days in school cadets and had many feet tapping. It was quite a bit different to the country music and didgeridoos that we usually expect.

Pipe Band at Sunday Market

Pipe Band at Sunday Market

Herveys Range Heritage Tea Rooms

One place we were looking forward to visiting was the Heritage Tea Rooms at the top of Herveys Range, about 30 minutes out of Townsville. Gabby the GPS failed us on this one and couldn’t find the tea rooms or even the correct road, so we reverted to paper maps for navigation.

Spectacular Views Going to Herveys Range

Spectacular Views Going to Herveys Range

The tea rooms are situated in what was originally the Eureka Hotel which was built in 1825 and is one of very few slab sided inns left standing in Australia. It has since been restored but the original colonial feel is still very much in existence, and there are some very old and historic photos and artefacts on display.

Herveys Range Heritage Tea Rooms

Herveys Range Heritage Tea Rooms

Displays at Herveys Range Heritage Tea Rooms

Displays at Herveys Range Heritage Tea Rooms

The old building is surrounded by beautiful tropical gardens, so we enjoyed our lunch outside with native birds providing a lovely background soundtrack.

Sights at Herveys Range Heritage Tea Rooms

Sights at Herveys Range Heritage Tea Rooms

On the way back from the tea rooms we stopped at a roadside lookout – the views across to Townsville were amazing.

Views from Herveys Range Lookout towards Townsville

Views from Herveys Range Lookout towards Townsville

We also made a brief detour down Black River Rd to the Black River Stadium caravan park. It’s about 20 kms from town but promotes itself as a “seniors” camp with no jumping castles etc, and with having large sites and very competitive rates. We didn’t actually go for a walk around the park, as we often do, but from what we could see there were certainly plenty of big rigs and there appeared to be plenty of room overall. It would be worthwhile considering as an alternative if we couldn’t get into either The Lakes or Rowes Bay, where we are this year.

Kissing Point Fort and Jezzine Barracks

Ann and I often go for a walk before breakfast and last Wednesday we set off in the general direction of The Strand, assuming that there would be a track that would take us all the way there. There certainly is a track and it took us through Kissing Point Fort and Jezzine Barracks. There is a long timber boardwalk, plenty of interpretive signs and a great collection of artworks reflective of the indigenous history of the area.

Boardwalk to Kissing Point

Boardwalk to Kissing Point

Artwork along Walkway

Artwork along Walkway

Kissing Point Fort was completed in 1891 to defend the harbour from the threat of foreign attack – at that time by the Russians. During WW2 it was the Headquarters for 265th Australian Infantry Battalion and landing ship tanks used the beach near the fort to embark and disembark men and supplies.

Sights at Kissing Point Fort

Sights at Kissing Point Fort

Sights at Kissing Point Fort

Sights at Kissing Point Fort

The walk also takes you through the Jezzine Barracks, a newly redeveloped recreation area that features Jezzine House, which is privately owned, a collection of army huts and the Army Museum of North Queensland.

Jezzine House and Army Museum

Jezzine House and Army Museum

As the last stage of our walk was reasonably strenuous for a couple of old crocs like us, we needed a rest, so we took refuge in the Odyssey on the Strand, where we both had a delicious breakfast. Once suitably nourished, we returned back to the caravan park by a slightly less strenuous route. Our early morning walk ended up taking nearly 3 hours! Odyssey is a very nice Greek themed café and restaurant so we will probably come back one night for dinner before we leave Townsville.

Odyssey on the Strand and Jezzine Barracks

Odyssey on the Strand and Jezzine Barracks

Walk Along Rowes Bay Beach

Another morning we walked along the beach in the other direction. It was a much flatter walk among some of Townsville’s amazing trees with their huge exposed root systems. There were a lot of people fishing along the beach and we were stunned to see fish literally jumping out of the water. Ann has put in an order for a fishing rod for Christmas! It’s exciting when there is actually something to catch!

Amazing Trees and Artworks

Amazing Trees and Artworks

Wandering

We’ve been snapping as we’ve been wandering around town so here’s a collection of some of the sights we’ve seen.

Flinders Street, Townsville

Flinders Street, Townsville

A Nice Place to Stay on the Strand overlooking the Marina

A Nice Place to Stay on the Strand overlooking the Marina

Lots of Fun at the Water Park on the Strand

Lots of Fun at the Water Park on the Strand

Scenes Around Townsville

Scenes Around Townsville

Townsville Show

Today – Monday – is actually the Townsville Show Public Holiday. The Show started on Friday night and coincides with the start of Queensland school holidays. It certainly looked very busy over the weekend. Max and June our neighbours here at the caravan park reported back that it was great for 5 year olds who were looking for show bags and rides, but that there really wasn’t much for us oldies to we decided to pass today and go for a long walk in the sun along the Strand instead.

Categories: 2014 Townsville Adventure | Tags: ,

Day 28 – Townsville

Friday

The big highlight today was securing our site in the caravan park for the next 6 weeks or so.

As instructed, after spending Thursday night on an unpowered site, we arrived at the Office a little before 9.00 am after having a good look around the park to get an idea as to which of the powered sites we might be able to fit into, and some idea as to which vans might be moving today.

We were third on the waiting list for today and were given two options. It was just as well that we had done a reconnoitre in advance as we knew that we wouldn’t be able to get into one of the two options, so we settled on the other and paid for a fortnight. This site is not only accessible but quite conveniently placed. It is also a big site with shelter from some large trees which will be great when Katie and Mick arrive in a couple of weeks.

It was then back to the van to pack up, hitch up and make our way to the new site which would be home for the next 6 weeks. Once here, we did a proper set-up as we had power, water and sullage and full mobile, internet and TV reception. As we will be here for a while we also set up the awning with the side wall and the back wall which will provide us with protection from the afternoon sun whilst still allowing the beautiful cooling breezes to flow through.

Comfortable in our new site

Comfortable in our new site

Settled in Paradise

Settled in Paradise

The second highlight of the day was seeing 6 Chinook helicopters flying in formation, very low and very loud, over the caravan park. We later found out that this was the first time in 19 years that all 6 of the Chinooks had flown together, so it was quite a historic moment. Unfortunately we were backing into our new site at the time and didn’t have the camera on hand, so we can’t include a photo of this stunning and extremely noisy fly-over. As a poor substitute we have included a photo of the front of the Townsville Bulletin showing the 6 Chinooks.

Chinooks made front page

Chinooks made front page

After setting up the van we had a tasty lunch into the van and then headed off into town to have a bit of a look around. Parking in the centre of Townsville can be a bit of a challenge, but once parked we heard some music – good 1960s and 1970s music at that. There was a live band playing in the “Perfumed Gardens” as part of the council’s free Music in the City program. The band was pretty good and there were quite a few people up dancing.

Music in the City - Townsville

Music in the City – Townsville

From there it was off for a walk up and down Flinders Street, the main shopping strip. It was sad that there seemed to be so many vacant shops in what is theoretically the centre of town, but we then came across the new “City Lane” precinct which officially opens tonight (Friday). This new development is being seen as something of a saviour to the city of Townsville which has attracted new businesses to the city and thus created interest and jobs. A second stage will effectively open in August. We will make sure that we check out City Lane now that it is actually open to the public.

We then made a quick visit to the Visitor Information Centre to find out more about what’s going on in Townsville for the next few weeks. After picking up some brochures we had coffee at the nearby café before heading back to the van to relax for the rest of the day.

Yes, we truly are in paradise! Just to rub it in a little, overnight minimum temperature is forecast to be 16, which is the forecast top for Melbourne. Sorry Melbournites and Canberrans!

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Day 27 – Charters Towers to Townsville

Within 2 hours of arrival at Townsville, Ann was enjoying a meal of Barramundi! Can you spot a pattern here?

This morning started off a little chilly – I started out in shorts and a long sleeve top but the top was soon discarded for a t-shirt as the day warmed up to the high 20s.

After a quick and easy pack-up we went for a final walk around the Dalrymple Tourist Van Park – it was very quiet the night after the big game!  We then set off along the Flinders Highway towards Townsville.

Early Morning View of Caravan Park at Charters Towers

Early Morning View of Caravan Park at Charters Towers

Our morning coffee stop was at the Reid River Rest Area. We stopped here last year as well and the area has been upgraded since then. This would be quite a good spot for an overnight stay.

Coffee Stop at Reid River Rest Area

Coffee Stop at Reid River Rest Area

It was then an easy drive the rest of the way into Townsville. You can’t help but be impressed by the mountains as you get closer to town.

Scenery Approaching Townsville

Scenery Approaching Townsville

The GPS got absolutely lost at some roadworks approaching town but we persevered and found ourselves again and finally arrived at Rowes Bay Caravan Park. We stayed at The Lakes last year and thought that we would try somewhere different this time. Rowes Bay however doesn’t accept bookings so we have accepted an unpowered site overnight and are on a waiting list for a powered site tomorrow. An interesting system but apparently it works and we have a great site overnight.

After unhitching and setting up we headed off into Townsville to find something for lunch.

Spectacular Houses on the hill in Townsville

Spectacular Houses on the hill in Townsville

We ended up, not surprisingly, at The Strand and stopped for lunch at the Fish Inn where we both enjoyed delicious grilled barramundi and Greek salad.

Lunch at the Fish Inn

Lunch at the Fish Inn

Views from Fish Inn to the Rock Pool and Magnetic Island

Views from Fish Inn to the Rock Pool and Magnetic Island

From the Fish Inn we walked to Juliette’s Gelateria for gelati and coffee on the beach. A short drive to reacquaint ourselves with the general area was followed by a quick trip to the supermarket for supplies, then back to the van to meet the neighbours and read in the sun.

Our temporary site at Townsville

Our temporary site at Townsville

Oh what a life!

PLEASE NOTE:

We plan to be in Townsville for up to 6 weeks and intend doing a lot of relaxing, reading, eating gelati and generally enjoying ourselves. We will not be updating this blog on a daily basis. However, there are some interesting things happening while we are in Townsville including visits from both our kids and our grand-kids, the Townsville Show, the V8 Supercars, markets, trips to Magnetic Island, and a whole lot more. We will update this blog when appropriate! So you can either check back from time to time, or why not sign up for email notifications which will send you an email whenever we do update the blog – see the bottom right hand corner to sign up.

Categories: 2014 Townsville Adventure | Tags: ,

Days 24, 25 & 26 – Charters Towers

Monday

Today was a “catch up” day when we both caught up with all sorts of things, many of which can’t be done while free camping or with limited services. Ann was able to catch up the washing, drying and ironing and I was able to catch up on a number of maintenance tasks required around the caravan. I also made a start at trying to get rid of the accumulated red dust/mud on the van and Ute. In some places the red mud was set like concrete and I was literally trying to chip it off, rather than wash it off. We also were able to catch up on phone calls and emails – and a couple of favourite TV shows.

Free camping has its advantages, but it doesn’t take too long being away from creature comforts like phone, internet and TV to realise just how much we rely on them for daily living.

Tuesday

Weatherwise today was a bit cooler and there was a bit of drizzle and light rain around at various times.

Today we played tourists around Charters Towers. Charters Towers came to fame in 1871 when gold was found here. In time it became the second largest town in Queensland and was affectionately known as “the World”. In its peak it included 11 crushing mills, 65 hotels and one of the first regional Stock Exchanges in Australia. It has many beautiful heritage buildings and work is continuing on the restoration and maintenance of buildings around town.

City Hall, Theatre, Private Hotel & Stock Exchange Arcade

City Hall, Theatre, Private Hotel & Stock Exchange Arcade

For instance, the Visitor Information Centre was once the Union Bank, built in 1880, and the building that was The Australian Bank of Commerce Limited building is now not much more than a façade for a new and very impressive theatre and entertainment complex. Other heritage buildings have also been repurposed with the Excelsior Hotel now serving as the city library. Some buildings, like the Post Office and Police Station are still used for their original purpose. The old Bank of New South Wales building now appears to be a private residence.

Stock Exchange Arcade & Post Office

Stock Exchange Arcade & Post Office

Other Buildings around Town

Other Buildings around Town

After walking around the main heritage area of town we wandered along Gill Street which is much more commercial, although all the buildings are heritage with wide verandahs and many with the early owner or purpose displayed. What appeared to be a large old fashioned draper shop is now being used by Target, and they haven’t gone over the top with signage so the visual heritage appeal of the building remains. There are very few vacant shops in the main streets of Charters Towers which is quite different to many country towns we have visited, and the town does have quite a positive “vibe”.

We returned to the caravan for lunch after picking up some supplies at a modern Woolworths supermarket – it was down a historic shopping arcade rather than directly facing the street and looking out of place.

After lunch we ventured up to Towers Hill which is slightly out of town. Towers Hill plays a vital role in the water supply to Charters Towers. Water from the Burdekin River is pumped up to two large tanks, one built in 1890, which store nearly 10 million litres of water which is then reticulated through the city.

Towers Hill Lookout

Towers Hill Lookout

Water Tanks & City View from Towers Hill

Water Tanks & City View from Towers Hill

Gold was originally found at the base of Towers Hill in 1871 and in the next few years approx. 30 vertical mines, shafts and tunnels were dug by miners in search of gold. Many of the mines are still visible but the government has specific programs to make areas like this safe.

Towers Hill also played a role in WW2 when the RAAF established the “No 3 Replenishing Centre” to store bombs, detonators and ammunition for use by RAAF bases in Townsville. There are around 30 concrete bunkers built on Towers Hill. They were camouflaged and reinforced with mullock from the old mines. Interestingly none of the bunkers’ entrances face each other – this was to ensure that an explosion in one did not set off explosions in others.

Bunker & Mine Shaft at Towers Hill

Bunker & Mine Shaft at Towers Hill

Towers Hill is also home to Allied Rock Wallabies, as well as eastern grey kangaroos, common wallaroos and pademelon wallabies. We saw quite a few examples while we were there.

Friendly Rock Wallaby at Towers Hill

Friendly Rock Wallaby at Towers Hill

After hours walking around Towers Hill we returned to the caravan where Ann whipped up a delicious dinner and we later relaxed watching TV.

Wednesday

It was decidedly chilly this morning but the sun came out and it turned out to be a beautiful day in the mid 20s with clear blue skies. The weather in this neck of the woods is far preferable to that in Melbourne.

We started our day by heading off into town and having coffee at The Healthy Treat tea rooms. Then we went for a bit of a walk around town before getting back in the Ute and having a leisurely scenic drive around the outskirts of town. We ended up at the Venus Gold Battery which is apparently the largest surviving battery relic in Australia. It was constructed in 1872 and became a State Battery in 1919 to provide ore crushing facilities for small miners. It ceased commercial operations in 1973 after a century of service. Unfortunately we arrived just after a tour departed and decided not to hang around for an hour for the next tour.

After further meandering around Charters Towers we returned to the caravan park to generally tidy up and do all the preparation for our departure tomorrow. I spent more time working on the red mud encasing various parts of the caravan. So we are fully packed, awning is up, outdoor furniture packed away and we have actually hitched up so that we can make an early start in the morning. The caravan park we plan on staying at in Townsville has been recommended by practically everyone we have spoken to, but they don’t take bookings. So we need to get there as early in the morning as possible in order to secure a good site.

M0st people here are gearing up for a big night by the bon-fire watching the Rugby State of Origin game tonight on the big screen but we will have an early night tonight in preparation for an early start tomorrow!

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Day 23 – Belyando Crossing to Charters Towers

Within 2 hours of arrival at Charters Towers Ann was enjoying a meal of Barramundi!

When we first looked out the window to check the weather this morning, we thought it looked a bit foggy. Then we realised that it was just the red dust on the window! A weather check outside revealed blue sky with a few white clouds and looking like a nice day to come. The weather gods certainly didn’t disappoint and it turned out to be a beautiful day.

We left Belyando Crossing reasonably early as there was no reason to stick around and we didn’t want there to be any issues with either of the two vans parked behind us wanting to make an early start of their own.

Leaving Belyando Crossing

Leaving Belyando Crossing

Morning coffee was at the Cape River Rest Area (Q401) which is about 90 kms North of Belyando Crossing. This was quite a reasonable place to stop and several vans appeared to be well settled in for the foreseeable future. The Cape River itself was a very wide expanse of sand without any sign of water. That said, the landscape changes quickly and we did see areas that seemed to have water lying around, some creeks with water, and some empty dams and some dams with water. There is nothing consistent about the landscape up here at all, other than cattle nearly everywhere.

About to cross Cape River - dry as a bone

About to cross Cape River – dry as a bone

Bush coffee break

Bush coffee break

From there it was less that 120 kms to the Dalrymple Tourist Caravan Park at Charters Towers.

Arriving at Charters Towers

Arriving at Charters Towers

Arriving at Charters Towers

Arriving at Charters Towers

Beautiful Poinsettias by the roadside in Charters Towers

Beautiful Poinsettias by the roadside in Charters Towers

We’ve got a nicely sheltered spot with plenty of greenery and all services – this is a welcome change after several days without internet, mobile phone, TV, water or sullage. After a quick set-up we went for a short walk around the park. It is very lush and tropical and has some very nice facilities, including a massive camp kitchen.

Setting Up

Setting Up

Views around the caravan park

Views around the caravan park

As it was about noon by now we drove back into town for lunch. We ended up at Henry’s Café and Restaurant where Ann indulged in a serve of barramundi and I had turkey. Both our meals were delicious and we went for a quick walk around town to try to walk some of it off. We stopped at the Tourist Information Centre and spoke to a very helpful lady who told us about all sorts of places we should see – we left with an armful of brochures and maps.

Henry's

Henry’s

Then it was back to the van for some relaxing and bringing our blog up-to-date.

We’re not sure how long we’ll stay in Charters Towers but it does seem a nice place to be with plenty to see and do.

Categories: 2014 Townsville Adventure | Tags: ,

Day 22 – Theresa Creek Dam to Belyando Crossing Roadhouse

At 5 minutes past midnight I heard rain on the roof of the van – it was only light but persistent. As we had left some windows and the door open for ventilation, I got up and closed up the van. If I had been more awake I would have taken the opportunity to bring our waterproof jackets in from the Ute. It rained all night and I didn’t sleep very well at all. I had a recurring nightmare that the soil under our van would turn into mud and that we would ski into the dam on the orange plastic blocks we put under the caravan legs. Fortunately that didn’t happen.

After showers and watching a bit of TV we were still a bit undecided as to whether we should stay and see out the rain or continue travelling north. When we heard that they were possibly expecting 30 ml of rain today our minds were made up so we packed up the van in the light rain and headed back to the highway.

A bit sad in the rain

A bit sad in the rain

A reminder that it is raining!

A reminder that it is raining!

First stop was not very far away at Clermont. This seems to be a nice old town with plenty of interesting heritage buildings. We did some shopping at IGA and stopped for a very good coffee at Bella Baristas café. We were contemplating staying overnight at the Clermont Caravan Park as recommended by Frosty, but it turns out that there is a large equestrian event on over the weekend and the park seemed very busy.

Scenes around Clermont

Scenes around Clermont

So we headed back to the Gregory Development Road northwards. As we left town we could not ignore the huge piles of earth around the Clermont Coal Mine, and what looked like an incredibly long undercover conveyor belt, presumably to move coal from the mine to the railway.

Conveyor belt and coal mine

Conveyor belt and coal mine

We had lunch at a roadside stop near the entrance to Frankfield Station. We were a bit intrigued by the sign for the Dead Horse Yards!

What's a Dead Horse Yard?

What’s a Dead Horse Yard?

The road seems longer in the rain

The road seems longer in the rain

Another 100 kms or so and we reached our destination – Belyando Crossing Roadhouse. This is a small roadhouse with very expensive diesel, a licensed bar and quite a good shop with meals etc. There is some reasonably priced motel style accommodation and powered and unpowered caravan sites. The layout of the powered sites is interesting in that there are three rows of sites with vans parked behind each other. We hope that the people behind us don’t want to leave at the crack of dawn! We have power but no water, and no TV, internet or mobile access.

Arriving at Belyando Crossing Roadhouse

Arriving at Belyando Crossing Roadhouse

Interesting Set-Up at Belyando Crossing Caravan Park

Interesting Set-Up at Belyando Crossing Caravan Park

Tonight’s accommodation is not on the same page as last night, it is just an overnight stop mid-way between Clermont and Charters Towers with nothing to see or do. However the weather is better and we are now closer to our eventual destination of Townsville.

The adventure continues…..

Categories: 2014 Townsville Adventure, Free Camping | Tags: , ,

Day 21 – Sapphire to Theresa Creek Dam

Last night we had a surprise but very welcome visitor – fellow Trailblazer adventurer “Frosty”. We have known Wayne and Marg Frost as long as we had owned our Trailblazer 5th Wheeler, and we have stayed in touch via email, occasional phone calls, and through our respective blogs. We have met up in Melbourne but we had never crossed paths on the road. Wayne and Marg had booked into a caravan park in Sapphire yesterday for a week to do some fossicking and had seen another Trailblazer at the free camp and wondered who owned it. Wayne then read our blog and realised who it was and came straight over. We had a great chat and hope that we will catch up again later in this trip.

Our free camp site at Sapphire is basically a vacant block of land between the swimming pool and the fire station. There is a public toilet and a dump point and a great general store a couple of hundred metres away. The land isn’t flat but there were 8 vans there overnight and room for a few more.

We had a look around Sapphire before we left and it really is a fascinating place with lots of mines and miners living in sheds and caravans, and plenty of gem shops and places catering for fossickers and prospectors. Much of the landscape seems to consist of mullock heaps where miners have deposited unwanted soil and other material.

Scenes around Sapphire

Scenes around Sapphire

Scenes around Sapphire

Scenes around Sapphire

Scenes around Sapphire

Scenes around Sapphire

Scenes around Sapphire

Scenes around Sapphire

First stop for coffee was a short distance up the Highway at Rubyvale. This is a bigger and in some regards a more modern version of Sapphire – there is certainly more development happening. We stopped for coffee at the Rubyvale Café where the coffees were great and I had the largest melting moment ever. The Rubyvale Gem Gallery is in the same building and there is also accommodation available. There are still plenty of more “traditional” mining and tourist establishments in town.

Rubyvale Cafe & Gem Gallery

Rubyvale Cafe & Gem Gallery

The Biggest Melting Moment I Have Ever Seen

The Biggest Melting Moment I Have Ever Seen

Scenes around Rubyvale

Scenes around Rubyvale

Back on the highway and another stop at Capella. We went for a good walk around town and picked up a few supplies. One very interesting monument was dedicated to the Australian Light Horse Brigade and the belief that the traditional wearing of emu feathers in the soldiers hats’ has a direct link to Capella. Also of interest were some large silos just out of town, but we couldn’t work out what they contained.

Scenes around Capella

Scenes around Capella

From Capella it was on to our final destination – the free camp at Theresa Creek Dam – and we made one of the worst decisions in our many adventures in the Trailblazer. We ignored a street sign pointing to our destination in favour of listening to the GPS! Big mistake!

This is the Sign we ignored

This is the Sign we ignored

Our GPS – which we call Gabby – told us to bypass the sign to Theresa Creek Dam and take another road. She then told us to turn onto a dirt road and then possibly 15 kms up that road decided that she was lost. Not good news! We had no other option but to continue up the dirt road until it either reached civilisation or we could find a place to turn around – not necessarily an easy thing in a Trailblazer 5th wheeler.

Seemingly endless dirt roads and nowhere to turn around

Seemingly endless dirt roads and nowhere to turn around

Fortunately a farmer/grazier/? and his wife pulled over next to us and confirmed that we were lost but told us that we could follow them to a couple of options where they thought that we could turn around. We passed on the first option and although we were a bit doubtful about the second we managed a U turn and then headed back down the dirt road.

Following our Friendly Farmers

Following our Friendly Farmers

After our U Turn on the dirt road

After our U Turn on the dirt road

Nearly there!

Nearly there!

Finally we reached the turnoff we should have taken in the first place and soon arrived at Theresa Creek Dam. It was quite crowded and no wonder. What an amazing place! Cost is $10 per night and there are showers, toilets and a dump point, but it was the view and the serenity that was priceless. After a long walk around the camp I cooked gourmet burgers on the BBQ and we sat out under the moon and stars until very late. Nothing beats an outback sky at night!

Approaching Theresa Creek Dam

Approaching Theresa Creek Dam

View from the Caravan of Theresa Creek Dam

View from the Caravan of Theresa Creek Dam

Set-up at Theresa Creek Dam

Set-up at Theresa Creek Dam

Serenity at Theresa Creek Dam

Serenity at Theresa Creek Dam

Serenity at Theresa Creek Dam

Serenity at Theresa Creek Dam

Although we have only booked a single night here we think we will stay a bit longer.

Categories: 2014 Townsville Adventure, Free Camping | Tags: , ,

Day 20 – Carnarvon Gorge to Sapphire

It was a lot warmer this morning so we were in short sleeve tops immediately after showers.

We got off to an early start today as the last section of the gravel road into Takarakka Bush Resort is effectively one lane, and we knew that most vans headed out early so as not to confront anyone coming in later in the day. Even though we hit the road at 8.30 am, after we had been through the single lane gravel section of the road we did see some vans coming in – at 9.00 am mind you. There was huge potential for problems behind us as outgoing met incoming!

The 40 kms from Takarakka was actually quite OK as a drive as long as we took it easy. Some of the scenery was magnificent. As expected, the friendly cattle were on the road to greet us again.

Road from Takarakka

Road from Takarakka

Road from Takarakka

Road from Takarakka

Once back on the highway, our first stop for coffee was at Rolleston. We found a nice little spot at Beazley Park which the bonus of a dump point nearby. Takarakka didn’t have a dump point so we made use of the facilities, as did another couple who we spoke to and had also stopped for morning coffee. We were soon joined by several other vans wishing to use the dump point, and a couple of drivers didn’t even turn off their engines. Their urgency spoilt the serenity somewhat.

A bit further up along the Dawson Highway we pulled over for a short break at the Virgin Rock Rest Area, 2 kms north of Springsure.  Ann took some photos of the fantastic scenery. This was a designated free camping area and there was one small campervan that looked as though they were already set for the day and possibly night.

Scenes Around Springsure

Scenes Around Springsure

Scenes at Virgin Rock Rest Area

Scenes at Virgin Rock Rest Area

Scenes at Virgin Rock Rest Area

Scenes at Virgin Rock Rest Area

Back on the highway it was another 70 kms or so to Emerald. It reminded us a bit of Kalgoorlie in that it’s a mining town with many modern facilities and a heritage background. Emeralds aren’t actually mined in Emerald. Primary industries include coal, sapphire and gem mining, cotton, wheat, maize, sorghum, sunflower, beef, citrus, peanuts and more. The Fairbairn Dam just south of Emerald was opened in 1972 and is a major water resource for irrigated crop production.

Welcome to Emerald

Welcome to Emerald

Giant Van Gough 'Sunflowers'

Giant Van Gough ‘Sunflowers’

Emerald was once famous as a major sunflower producer and is now home to the world’s biggest Van Gough ‘Sunflower’ painting. It is also apparently the world’s largest painting on an easel. It stands 25 metres high.

After a quick look around Emerald we had a quick lunch in the van before venturing back to the highway.

Another 44 kms up the Capricorn Highway we turned off onto the Central Highland Tourist Route and soon came to the small town of Sapphire. The Sapphire area boasts having the largest and richest sapphire fields in the world. There are many small underground mines and there are tours available. There are also places where you can buy a bucket of “wash” to sort through yourself and hopefully make a small fortune in gemstones.

We soon settled in at the Sapphire Reserve free camp along with several other caravans and motorhomes.   Some of the locals came to join us as well.

Free Camping at Sapphire Reserve

Free Camping at Sapphire Reserve

The Locals Join Us at Sapphire

The Locals Join Us at Sapphire

Today has been a rather longer day for us so it will be an early night so we can hit the road refreshed tomorrow.

Categories: 2014 Townsville Adventure, Free Camping | Tags: , ,

Day 19 – Carnarvon Gorge

Today was the first day this trip that I have worn shorts!

The day started at about 6.00 am when a flock of kookaburras started laughing to herald in the new day. However it was still too dark and too cold so we pulled the doona up and stayed in bed a while longer. The absolute darkness and serenity here ensured that we had a great sleep!

We eventually got moving and after breakfast packed hats, sunscreen, water bottles, snacks and cameras and headed off in the 4WD Ute to explore Carnarvon Gorge.

First stop was the visitor information centre several kilometres away along the gravel road where we had a good look around the displays, including a 3D model of the gorge. As this is a National Park there was a very knowledgeable Ranger on hand to assist with any queries and the displays were very informative. There was one couple we met who were doing a quite long walk and were going to camp out overnight. They were a lot younger than us!

Carnarvon Gorge Information Centre

Carnarvon Gorge Information Centre

As neither of us has a lot of experience in bush walking, we decided to try to stick within our limitations so our first trek was the apparently reasonably sedate “Nature Trail”, which is a 1.5 km walk, mainly along the creek. That may be the case but it started out with a water crossing and included several more as we went on. It was a beautiful walk through almost tropical forests with a huge diversity of plants and we took lots of photos. It was also extremely peaceful – there is certainly something special about walking alongside moving water.

Crossing the creek

Crossing the creek

Nature Trail

Nature Trail

Nature Trail

Nature Trail

Nature Trail

Nature Trail

After a snack and a rest back at a park at the end of the Nature Trail, we decided to forego the main and most spectacular walks and returned to the Ute and headed back down the road to the Mickey Creek Gorge car park. As the Ranger had explained last night, there are actually two different walks accessible from this track so we had a couple of options.

Fellow adventurers will know all about these adventure walks. First they suck you in with a nice flat, wide path and you really enjoy yourself. Gradually, however, the track gets narrower and the terrain gets rougher, and almost before you know it you’re scrambling along goat tracks and climbing up steep steps to an unseen destination. Then they get you with the water crossings where you have to guess which one is the wobbly stone they deliberately put there for their amusement.

Thus it was with the walk to Mickey Creek Gorge. Never-the-less, we continued as the scenery was absolutely spectacular – it can never be successfully captured in photos although we did take plenty. There are sheer sandstone cliffs and huge boulders with tall trees of every description plus ferns and other plant life. In some places the sun shines through and in other places you are walking completely in the cool shade. There were narrow tracks and steep steps and quite a few water crossings – neither of us got a foot wet or dropped anything in the water.

Before heading to Mickey Creek Gorge, we took the alternative track to Warrumbah Creek Gorge, which the sign said was only 200 metres away. It was a great walk but the 200 metres was only to the end of the official track – we were on our own from there. We did make some progress but it was getting too difficult to continue so we turned back and took the trail towards Mickey Creek Gorge. The sheer majesty of the scenery was amazing but again we reached the end of the official track and decided not to push ourselves too hard to get to the eventual end of the gorge.

Mickey Creek Gorge

Mickey Creek Gorge

Mickey Creek Gorge

Mickey Creek Gorge

 

Mickey Creek Gorge

Mickey Creek Gorge

 

Mickey Creek Gorge

Mickey Creek Gorge

After a drink and a snack we retraced our footsteps and headed back to Ute and back to Takarakka Bush Resort and the caravan.

We had been walking for several hours so Ann whipped up a late lunch after which we sat and read for a while under the awning.

As we’re leaving tomorrow we made a start at packing up the awning and other bits and pieces, under the watchful eye of a very friendly kookaburra.

Supervising Kookaburra

Supervising Kookaburra

We have thoroughly enjoyed our stay at Takarakka Bush Resort at Carnarvon Gorge. This has been a great place to stay and the walks around the Gorge can only be described as spectacular. We highly recommend this place – but remember there is a gravel road in, and out.

Categories: 2014 Townsville Adventure | Tags:

Day 18 – Roma to Carnarvon Gorge

Today was a real adventure!

The thermometer was showing 9 degrees inside the van when I got up but things quickly warmed up with the heater on and the day, as usual, turned on clear blue skies, white fluffy clouds, and was nice and warm.

After a quick trip down to the supermarket for supplies – we had foolishly thought Woolies would be open yesterday, a public holiday – we had breakfast and packed up the van. We knew we weren’t travelling too far today so an early start wasn’t essential.

The Day Begins

The Day Begins

Our first stop for coffee was at the small town of Injune, some 100 kms up the Carnarvon Highway heading north. This looks a very nice place and has a very impressive information centre and coffee shop. There’s a caravan park here and we were pretty sure that we saw some vans at the showgrounds.

Injune

Injune

About 30 kms up the highway from Injune we came across roadworks – some 25 kms of roadworks made even worse because we were behind an empty multi-unit road train which created a huge cloud of dust and stones behind it. To be fair the driver did indicate for us to overtake him when the roadworks were finished and the road was clear.

Roadworks

Roadworks

Apart from the roadworks, today’s driving has been more interesting than most other days so far this trip. The terrain was more undulating and the road a bit more winding. The landscape has been a bit more varied as well.

For lunch we stopped at a huge truck parking area that very obviously had potential for free camping. It was huge and flat with plenty of tracks away from the main parking area to give less noise and some weather protection. There was at least one caravan there and they looked to be pretty settled. We couldn’t find this place in the Camps 7 book, but have made a note of its location in case we are travelling this way in the future.

Lunch Stop

Lunch Stop

Unfortunately we couldn’t find today’s destination in the GPS system, so from Injune we were relying on maps and the speedo to give us an indication as to where we needed to turn off the highway. As we got closer the road conditions changed and we encountered several very steep declines in the road. The landscape was changing too and the plains and scrub were replaced by cuttings through rock and majestic rocky outcrops rising from the ground. Very spectacular!

On the road to Carnarvon Gorge

On the road to Carnarvon Gorge

Eventually we found our turnoff which turned out to be a narrow bitumen road, much of it unfenced for livestock, which we encountered several times. The cattle seemed pretty docile and unfazed by us and most simply went on sunbaking as we went past.

The Road to Takarakka

The Road to Takarakka

As we continued, the road got narrower. Grazing fields and pasture made way for very close vegetation and more undulations. We probably should have expected it but the road then turned to gravel and a sign indicated that we still had about 15 kms to go. Neither of us recall any of the brochures mentioning a gravel road but it was too late to turn back – and there literally was nowhere to turn around anyway – so we continued towards our destination on the gravel, through water crossings, and other off-road conditions that we’re not accustomed to.

Water Crossing

Water Crossing

Are we there yet?

Are we there yet?

Finally we reached our destination – Takarakka Bush Resort. This is a beautiful place and is well laid out.

Welcome to Takarakka Bush Resort

Welcome to Takarakka Bush Resort

We secured a drive through site close to one of the bright and clean amenities blocks. Exploring the park we found a great reception area and shop with an outside sitting/dining area, several amenities blocks, a number of fire pits and some fantastic camp kitchens. It was well worth the drive to get here – had we known about the road we may not have come here and we would have missed a treat.

Settling in at Takarakka

Settling in at Takarakka

day17-takarakka_1442_web

Sights around the camp

Sights around the camp

 

Platypus Lagoon

Platypus Lagoon

Apart from the Coopers Pale Ale stubby that fell into my hand when I opened the fridge, the only casualty of the trip was one of the venetian blinds which came adrift, but that was quickly rectified. We are so glad that we have maintained the discipline of packing the van properly every time we travel as things could have been a real disaster otherwise.

Casualty of the bumpy road

Casualty of the bumpy road

At 5.00 pm we went down to reception where a Ranger gave a very informative 30 – 40 minute talk about the Carnarvon Gorge and the various walks and sights. It was a great introduction and induction to the area.

Dining Area

Dining Area

After the Ranger’s presentation we stayed in the sitting/dining area for a delicious roast dinner that they put on a couple of times each week for guests. The cost was very reasonable and the food, including dessert, was delicious. The best part of these dinners is always the people you meet and we sat with two other couples who had been here for different lengths of time and were great company. We swapped notes about caravanning, favourite destinations, and so on.

There is no mobile, internet or TV reception out here in the wilderness, so after dinner we returned to the van to watch a DVD before having a reasonably early night.

About Where We Are:

Carnarvon Gorge is a section of the Carnarvon National Park and is described as “an oasis in the semi-arid heart of Central Queensland”. The Gorge section of the national park covers 16,000 hectares and was declared a park in 1932. It is the most popular tourist destination in Queensland’s central highlands. There are many short and long walks around Carnarvon Gorge, including the 6 or 7 day Carnarvon Great Walk. There is a permanent source of water within the Gorge which sustains a rich variety of plants and animals. There are also many reminders of life in the Gorge by the traditional owners including engravings, ochre stencils and freehand paintings.

Takarakka Bush Resort is situated at the gateway of the Carnarvon Gorge National Park. There are a variety of accommodation options including camping, caravan sites, ensuite cabins and safari tents.

Categories: 2014 Townsville Adventure | Tags: , ,

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