Shorty's RV Adventures

Nullarbor Roadhouse to Moodini Bluff Free Camp

Posted on Monday, June 17, 2013 by shorty

On Friday morning we left the Nullarbor Roadhouse at about 9 am. There had been heavy rain all night so we were happy with our decision to stop when we did on Thursday night. It was very overcast but not raining at that stage. From the roadhouse, the Eyre Highway runs inland along the Bunda Cliffs that we had viewed on Thursday. Today we noticed the Royal Flying Doctor Service signs on the road advising us that at several points the highway is actually an emergency RFDS landing strip. The road in those sections is very good and a lot wider so that we would have space to get out of the way!

Storm Clouds over Nullarbor Roadhouse

Leaving Nullarbor Roadhouse

Just what we needed in the rain!

Rainbow on the Nullarbor – Felt Like We Could Touch It

RFDS Signs on the Highway

After about 75 kms we took a leap of faith and turned down a 2 km dirt track to a lookout. WOW! What a magnificent view! We spent a while exploring and then back to the van for a hot coffee to warm up again before continuing west again.

About 30 Kms further down the highway we turned down another dirt track to the Bunda Cliffs Scenic Lookout. Again, spectacular views and we managed to negotiate the track and turn around without any problems.

Then 10 kms further down the highway there was yet another dirt track to Lookout #3. This was also breathtaking scenery but totally different to the first 2 lookouts. This time rather than spectacular rugged cliff faces, we were viewing amazing beaches and sand dunes.

Lookout #1

Lookout #2

Lookout #3

Is this a dinosaur footprint?

As we proceeded to the South Australia / Western Australia border checkpoint we caught glimpses of the ocean from the highway. The quarantine inspection at the border crossing is very thorough. Inspectors take all of your details and check the tow vehicle and the van for fresh fruit and vegetables or nuts or plants or soil materials or honey. We had an open jar of honey which we declared and they confiscated.

Rooey Giving Directions at the SA/WA Border

SA-WA Quarantine Inspection Checkpoint

SA – WA Border

After that we drove a short distance to Eucla where we bought sandwiches for lunch and then drove down a 4 km dirt track to the sand dunes to explore the old Eucla Telegraph Station which is now almost totally submerged under sand. We had seen it a number of times on TV but it is quite an experience to actually see the sand dunes taking over substantial buildings. We walked around and climbed sand dunes before returning to the van. We were both a bit surprised that we had driven down such a steep dirt track to get to the ruins but the Mazda didn’t miss a beat hauling the rig up the 45 degree hill. What were we thinking – perhaps we weren’t!!

Welcome Whale at Eucla

Eucla Telegraph Station

On Dear! The only way is up, with the rig.

It didn’t look this steep coming down!

Travellers’ Cross at Eucla

We checked out a number of rest areas before we finally stopped at Moodini Bluff Rest Area for the night. There were about 8 other travellers there and there was plenty of space for everyone and more. It is set back off the road and nice and quiet, although we didn’t even bother checking out the toilet facilities. This was a great spot for our first night free camping on our 2013 Big Adventure.

Trailblazer at Moodini Bluff

Moodini Bluff Rest Area Facilities

Very Happy Camper!

Unfortunately (?) there was no mobile or internet access so we are posting this entry retrospectively.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure, Free Camping | Tags: moodini bluff, nullarbor roadhouse

We have Internet!

Posted on Monday, June 17, 2013 by shorty

After 3 days without TV or mobile reception, or Internet access, we have arrived in Norseman. We are still living the dream and will post updates later today.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure

Ceduna to Nullarbor Roadhouse

Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2013 by shorty

This morning was bright and sunny with no wind or rain at Shelly Beach. We hitched up and headed west along the Eyre Highway. It appeared that 6 other vans at Shelly Beach Caravan Park also headed west – we’ll probably meet them on the road somewhere. Because there has been so much rain, the countryside is quite green at the moment.

Our first stop was at a rest area about 15 kms west of Penong. The weather was still very good so after a quick coffee and a stretch we headed further west along the highway. After a short while our big black rain cloud caught up with us and we found ourselves driving in heavy blinding rain. Not fun, especially when confronted with road train trucks with wide loads. We could not pull over so we just had to keep going and eventually we drove out of the rain and spotted a very nice rest area 21 kms west of Yalata. We really enjoyed our lunch in the sun.

Leaving Shelley Beach Ceduna

Clouding Over on the Road

Heavy Rain – Again!

Lunch Break in the Sun

Entering the Eastern End of the Treeless Plains

After a refreshing break, we continued on to Head of Bight. This could only be described as an absolutely FANTASTIC experience. We turned off the highway and drove 12 kms down a very good road to the Head of Bight Lookout. We were very lucky today as there were 20 whales wallowing in the water near the coast. At first we could see the whales at a distance and that was good but then we realised that some of the whales were heading our way into shore. Three female whales with their calves moved over to the area in front of us and played and called to each other about 30 metres away! WOW! It was amazing. After a while we realized that we were freezing cold and wet as there was misty rain and strong wind, so we headed back to the van. We could not believe it when we looked at the time and realised that we had been whale watching for over 2 hours! This is something that we will never forget.

Head of Bight

The Bunda Cliffs

Mother & Calf

Rainbow at Day’s End

We continued west along the highway and stopped at the Nullarbor Roadhouse for fuel just before 5.30. While I was re-fuelling, the sky clouded over and looked very threatening. Ann went in to the Roadhouse for some bread and arranged for us to stay in the area behind the Roadhouse. There are some facilities here but we would prefer to use our own. We have not unhitched so we will be able to get moving early in the morning. It has been raining quite heavily since we stopped.

What a fantastic day!

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: ceduna, nullarbor roadhouse

Ceduna – Day 3

Posted on Wednesday, June 12, 2013 by shorty

We were prepared to head off this morning but the wind was relentless all night and continued all day today. It has been raining off and on but the wind was going to make the day very unpleasant. After checking the weather maps and a quick chat with the proprietors of the caravan park, we decided to extend our stay here another day and not risk the weather across the Nullarbor. There are several other vans here in the caravan park that are also waiting for the weather to improve.

The bird life is amazing. There was one little bird this morning, about the size of an Indian Minor, but it was a soft velvety grey colour, and it had the most amazing call – 3 whistles and then 1 very loud clear sound almost like a bellbird. It had been sitting just outside the door of the van serenading us. Ann managed to get the attached photo if anyone can identify it. It was very shy and seemed to blend into the foliage.

Unidentified Bird with amazing call

We spent the morning reading and emailing and after lunch the rain had stopped so we went for a walk to the beach. Once we reached the point of no return, our big black cloud found us again and we ran for cover to a shelter on the beach, but the rain was horizontal and still managed to soak us!

When it eased we decided to continue on but it was obvious that more rain was not far away so we returned to the van to change and dry off. We were very happy with our decision not to hit the road today.

Hopefully we head off tomorrow!

Interesting Facts about Ceduna:

It is located on the Far West Coast of South Australia on the shores of Murat Bay on the Great Australian Bight.
It is approximately 780 kms from Adelaide and 1900 road kms from Perth.
Ceduna calls itself the Oyster Capital of Australia and hosts the annual Oysterfest on the SA long weekend in October.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: ceduna

Ceduna – Day 2

Posted on Tuesday, June 11, 2013 by shorty

After a beautiful sunset last night and a walk on the beach, we had just settled down to dinner and the skies opened up – our rain cloud had found us again! The drumming of the rain on the roof didn’t stop us both having a great sleep after our long day on the road.

Today has gone from bright sunshine to squally rain and back again all day. Quite unpleasant!

This morning we headed out to Thevenard to visit the fresh fish processors as Ann was dying to get some fresh fish. Both factories appeared to be closed, much to Ann’s huge disappointment. However, on our way back into Ceduna, there was a large funeral underway and we suspect there might be a connection.

Anyway, Bill’s fish and chicken shop [next door to Bill’s pizza and pasta] advertises that they cook up local fish so I placated Ann with a serve of fresh grilled fish and salad, cooked by Bill. It was delicious so we were very happy campers again.

We also visited IGA to do some shopping for the next several days as there is not likely to be a supermarket where we are heading. And yes, we finally got some milk!

Between rain storms we had a bit more of a walk around the caravan park. With the weather we’ve had we are very pleased that we were allocated such a nice large and protected site.

The amenities blocks here are quite different to what we have seen before on this trip. Each small block includes a couple of toilets, plus a family bathroom, and a couple of shower/toilet combinations. They are even netted to keep out the flies and make one’s visit a more pleasant experience. All are very clean and well maintained.

It has been nice to have a slow day and come back to our comfortable, cosy van to sit and read out of the weather. With a limited range of TV channels here, a DVD might be the go this evening.

Ceduna Day 2

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: ceduna

Nuttbush to Ceduna, SA

Posted on Monday, June 10, 2013 by shorty

We woke to a bright sunny day and packed up and left Nuttbush Retreat by 9.00 am. I finished my tablets from Broken Hill yesterday so I was feeling pretty good and we decided to take advantage of [hopefully] quieter roads on a public holiday and travel a bit further than usual.

We drove west along the Eyre Highway past Iron Knob and on through Lake Gillies Conservation Park.

Our first stop was at Kimba which is a very welcoming, clean town. Kimba has an eight metre giant Galah and signs everywhere remind travellers that they are half way across Australia. We enjoyed our coffee and shared a snack from the bakery while talking to some other travellers who had stopped next to us. We also re-fuelled in Kimba. This is the first time since Peterborough. We are glad we had the long range fuel tank installed and very happy with our fuel efficiency at this stage of our journey.

Views of Kimba

Kimba – Half Way Across Australia

Morning Tea at the Big Galah in Kimba

The day continued to warm up to 24 degrees and by lunchtime we were down to t-shirts. We stopped at Wudinna East Rest Area for a quick lunch and a stretch. Then on to Poochera Rest Area for another break and stretch and on to Puntabie East Rest area for another break and stretch before we finally arrived at Shelly Beach Caravan Park in Ceduna.

Silos and Water Pipe Along the Way

Monument to the Australian Farmer at Wudinna

Lots of Bushland Along the Way

First Glimpse of Ceduna

Sunset at Shelly Beach Caravan Park Ceduna

It has been a long day and we travelled 447 kms. This is a great spot and we wandered down to the beach to watch the sunset. It will be an early night tonight and we plan to stay a couple of days to enjoy this great find.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: ceduna, kimba, nuttbush retreat

Nuttbush – Day 2

Posted on Sunday, June 9, 2013 by shorty

Today started off cold and cloudy but by 9.30 am it was a fantastic warm sunny day. We had to find our warm weather gear which was good. There were several other vehicles who camped here last night and all left this morning but we decided to stay another day.

Early Morning at Nuttbush

Sheep Yards at Nuttbush

Our plan for this morning was to drive 35 or so kilometres into Iron Knob to explore the town and buy some milk. There is a sign on the highway advertising counter meals at the pub so we thought that that might also be an option. As soon as we turned off the highway and the ute was facing town we knew that our day was not going to plan!!!

The welcome board looked tired and had graffiti. The next thing that we saw was the Motel and our photo says it all. We have never seen a town with so much damage and rubbish. All of the shops seemed to be shut or closed down except the Post office / General Store but that had metal grills and looked closed and very uninviting. We drove slowly around the whole town thinking that we must just be in the wrong area, but no, it was all as bad and depressing.

We found the Pub and again our photo says it all. We were only 75 kms from Port Augusta which is a bustling busy mining town but this mining town is beyond words. We checked out the Free Camp where we had intended to stay before we found Nuttbush and yes, it had a brick well painted toilet block, a dump point, a camp kitchen and a flat parking area……BUT……..Oh Dear!!!!

The mine tours were not available on the weekend and we suspect that the mine is closed as everything looked very dilapidated even though there are apparently still a couple of hundred people living here.

Welcome to Iron Knob

Iron Knob – Birthplace of the Australian Steel Industry

Dilapidated Mine

Never Believe Travel Brochures!

Tours Start at Whyalla ??? 95 km away?

Iron Knob Tourist Centre – Closed at Weekends

Views of Iron Knob

No Meals Today

More Views of Iron Knob

Buckingham Shack !

Toilet Block at Iron Knob Free Camp

Camp Kitchen at Iron Knob Free Camp

We decided that we could live without buying milk (well actually we couldn’t even find a shop selling milk) and headed back to the station for a coffee while we drooled over our maps, planning the next stage of our adventure. The weather was so good that we opened all of the windows in the van to let it air. We are now in the land of red dust and those annoying little flies that get in behind your sunglasses, so we decided to sit inside behind fly screens to enjoy our hot paella for lunch.

Just after lunch, more vans started to enter this park and while Ann was hanging out some washing we had a good chat to some travellers who have just come across the Nullabor. It was good to hear about their travels and reassuring that the road is good and that there are plenty of free camps along the way. The laundry and clothes line got a real workout today with the good weather and travellers from the Nullabor.

I also had a good chat to one of the owners of the park. It turns out that one of the things they are trying here is to feed-lot their sheep. Essentially that means that rather than let the sheep try to find enough food out in the dry paddocks they spend more time in the yards with controlled feeding. The theory is that they will fatten up better. Things are pretty tough out here and we wish the Nutt family well with their new venture. The whole time we’ve been here they have been working very hard.

Here are some of Ann’s photos of the camp kitchen and shearers’ quarters at Nuttbush.

Updated Shearers’ Quarters

Courtyard Outside Camp Kitchen

Camp Kitchen View

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: iron knob, nuttbush retreat

Peterborough to Nuttbush “City Limits”

Posted on Saturday, June 8, 2013 by shorty

This morning started out cold but the weather soon upgraded to fine and sunny. We set off early from Peterborough as it is the start of a long weekend and we knew that there would be holiday traffic. We drove through Orroroo to Wilmington Centenary Park for morning tea. Another family had the same idea and we all stood in the sun and enjoyed a coffee and a chat. They were travelling from Whyalla to Peterborough to take their young son Dillon to the Steamtown Heritage Rail Museum and he was really looking forward to it.

From there we headed to Port Augusta through some breathtaking scenery. This really is picture postcard scenery – Mt Remarkable National Park, Mt Brown Conservation Park and the Flinders Ranges – even more special on such a warm sunny day!

En Route to Port Augusta

Historic Lutheran Church

Horrocks Pass

We drove about 40 kms past Port Augusta on the Eyre Highway towards Iron Knob to Nuttbush Retreat based at Pandurra Station, which is a sheep and cattle working station which has diversified its business by setting up a rustic Caravan Park in a front Paddock next to the Woolshed. Reception is in the Woolshed beside a very rustic licensed dining room.

Nuttbush Retreat at Pandurra Station

Some shearer’s quarters have been dressed up for motel style accommodation. There is a swimming pool for better weather, plus an undercover “Baa Baa Q” area. The amenities are good and the camp kitchen has to be seen to be believed. It looks like it is in an original building (well over 100 years old) with original wood fired cooker and benches 4 inches thick but it is very clean, functional and inviting if you are not self contained. There is also a big Recreation room with a full sized billiard table and open fireplace.

After unhitching and setting up the caravan we drove back to Port Augusta to have a good look around. We spent a bit of time at the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Gardens and the Matthew Flinders Red Cliff Lookout which was very well set up and most informative. After that we returned to the van for a rest before dinner.

Port Augusta

Port Augusta Marina

Unique Sundial at Australian Arid Lands Botanical Garden

Sturt Desert Pea at Australian Arid Lands Botanical Garden

Matthew Flinders Red Cliffs – Port Augusta

Oh Dear !! Roadkill.

We have a nice level gravelled powered spot with breath-taking views to the Flinders Ranges and all for $28 per night on a long weekend!!! Unfortunately the dining room and bar is closed tonight so we’re having home made pizza in the van!

Still living the dream!

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: iron knob, nuttbush retreat, peterborough, port augusta

Peterborough – Day 2

Posted on Friday, June 7, 2013 by shorty

We woke to a fine sunny morning so we headed off into town on foot. It is only about a 20 minute walk through the park that we explored yesterday and then several blocks to the railway. To our surprise, when we reached the railway line there was a subway which was built in 1900 because there were between 100 and 120 trains per day going through Peterborough (or Petersburg as it was known then.). Today, the subway has murals of the local area painted all along and it was convenient but there are very few trains per day now.

When we arrived in town, we decided to start at one end and work our way around. It is a quaint town proud of its busy rail history and sandstone buildings.

Peterborough Hotel

Federal Hotel

Junction Hotel

Railway Hotel

Street Artwork

Visitor Information Centre in Railway Carriage

There is some farming and virtually no industry today so Peterborough, like so many country towns now, is heavy reliant on tourism. The locals certainly make you feel welcome. We stopped for a coffee and home made biscuits at the Take a Break coffee shop and then went on to the Tourist Information Centre which is housed in a refurbished rail carriage.

We viewed the Peterborough Patchworker’s Federation Wall Hanging housed in the Foyer of the Town Hall. It took in excess of 1700 hours to complete and was constructed to commemorate the Federation of Australia. We also visited Meldenfield’s History and Heritage in Miniature. There were some amazing hand crafted scale miniatures. The Scale miniature of the old Petersburg Station was even crafted out of the bricks and stone from the old building which was demolished in the 1960’s.

Federation Quilt

Miniature Petersburg Station

After walking for 2 hours we were about to head back to the van when it started to rain. Change of plans – we went into the nearest hotel for lunch. We entered the Peterborough Hotel and found a table near a heater as we had not brought coats and by this stage we were cold and wet. Our meals were delicious and very reasonably priced.

By the time we had finished our lunch it had stopped raining and the sun was out again so we decided to walk a bit further out of town to the big Steamtown Heritage Rail Museum. We were very pleased that we did because it was really interesting. We spent an hour and a half walking around the rail yards and climbing up and down in and out of steam engines and diesel engines and train carriages. Our guide made it very interesting.

One vehicle that caught my eye was a 1937 Morris Inspection Car. The Morris had been converted to run on rails so the wheels had been replaced, and the steering wheel had been removed. To fit in the rear railway wheels the back seat had to be raised so the roof of the car was raised as well – and a superb bit of body-work it was. The inspection car also featured a very early mobile phone, which connected to the overhead cables and was therefore “mobile”.

Steamtown Heritage Rail Centre

Triple Guage Turntable

Some of the Steam Engines

Morris Motor Inspection Car showing mobile phone on back bumper

Morris Motor Inspection Car

After 5 hours mostly on our feet, we headed back to the van rather tired. A light tea and early to bed to prepare for another driving day tomorrow.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: peterborough

Broken Hill to Peterborough, SA

Posted on Thursday, June 6, 2013 by shorty

As we were both keen to leave Broken Hill, we decided to forego the free pancakes on offer for breakfast at the Caravan Park and hit the road. We left Broken Hill early [for us] and headed west on the Barrier Highway towards Port Augusta in SA.

What is Creeping?

Our first morning break was at Cutana Rest Area. As we pulled off the road we were rather surprised to find a vehicle draped in police tape. I checked it out thoroughly for bullet holes and blood, but found nothing too exciting. We figured things were safe so we proceeded to park and enjoyed a coffee and a stretch – all the time imagining what terrible thing may have happened.

Abandoned Ute

We then continued along the highway. It was overcast but a very good driving day. We stopped at Yunta Centennial Park for lunch. This seemed to be a busy stopping place for nomads like us. I spent a while discussing overnight options with a fellow traveler.

Yunta Hotel

Lunch at Yunta Centennial Park

As we continued along the Barrier Highway after lunch the skies turned very black. Our rain cloud had found us! We decided to pull off and checked out a couple of free camps but they already had surface water so we continued to Peterborough Caravan Park which is like paradise after Broken Hill.

We parked without unhitching and put on our coats and went exploring. The Caravan Park is very nice and clean and inviting and it is next to Victoria Park which has a lake full of ducks. It is a great spot. The Caravan Park owner gave us a run down on the town and we can’t wait to explore further tomorrow.

Artwork outside the Gents

Artwork outside the Ladies (note the FJ)

Ducks at Victoria Park came to greet us

Interesting facts about Peterborough:

It is 240 km from Adelaide.
It has a population of 2000.
The Indian Pacific goes through the town 4 times a week.
It is 10 kms from Yongala which is the coldest place in SA.
It is home to the Steamtown Heritage Rail Museum

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: broken hill, peterborough