2013 Big Adventure

Mary’s Pool Rest Area to Dunham River Rest Area

Posted on Thursday, July 4, 2013 by shorty

After another cold night we awoke to a glorious morning at Mary’s Pool. While we were packing up to leave, a 4 wheel drive Kimberly Wild tour bus arrived as part of their authentic early morning activities. Unfortunately they chose the wrong place to park today as while drinking their billy tea the tourists had a great view of a large fifth-wheeler (not ours) pumping out their black-water tank into the dump point. Very authentic!

Packing Up at Mary’s Pool Rest Area

Leaving Mary’s Pool

First stop for the day was for coffee and to refuel at Halls Creek, where we took the opportunity to visit the Tourist Info Centre and also have a bit of a look around town. I was partly interested because one of my nieces (with her father) had lived and worked here for several years not too long ago.

On the Way to Halls Creek

Cattle

Cattle Yards

From Halls Creek our next intended destination was the Spring Creek Rest Area which we thought might be a potential overnight stop. No way José, so we continued on.

The next potential free camp was the Muluk Rest Area, where we actually stopped for lunch. However there was really only one decent spot, which was already taken, so we somewhat reluctantly hit the road again.

Driving today has been pretty much the same as previous days, with more single lane bridges, plenty of ant hills of all sorts if shapes and sizes, cattle (some in yards today), some horses roaming free, and, as always, beautiful mountainous scenery.

It was, however, somewhat disconcerting today to see smoke directly ahead of us on the highway, and eventually to be on both sides of us, with the roadsides still smouldering. Speaking to a fellow traveller, he wasn’t at all concerned and just said it was the locals burning off! The big thing is that there never seems to anyone actually looking after the fires. In Turkey Creek they were even burning off their nature strips, again with no-one in attendance.

Smoke Ahead

Burning Off

Mountain After Burning Off

Our next possible overnight stop was the Doon Doon Roadhouse and Caravan Park, but as we arrived the signs indicated that the caravan park had closed.

By now it was getting quite late to be driving, although the scenery was still amazing. Places to stop are rather spread out around here.

Fantastic Scenery

So we headed on up the highway and finally stopped at the Dunham River Rest Area in the Bungle Bungles, where we simply slotted into a great spot and had a chance for a quick sit outside before it got too dark.

Today was the furthest distance we have driven in a single day so far this trip, but all’s well that ends well.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure, Free Camping | Tags: dunham river, mary's pool

Ellendale Rest Area to Mary’s Pool Rest Area

Posted on Thursday, July 4, 2013 by shorty

Monday night was a starry, starry night, so we spent a fair bit of time outside checking out the Milky Way, Orion’s Belt, The Saucepan and all the other constellations we learnt about in primary school.

The downside of a clear and starry night is that it inevitably leads to a freezing cold night – which it did. So it was back to the doona on the bed.

After a comfortable night in the fiver we eventually got up and organised and hit the road reasonably early (for us).

First stop was the Ngiyali Roadhouse in Fitzroy Crossing for fuel, then a visit to the Fitzroy Crossing Visitor Info Centre, which we found to be surprisingly interesting. Then back to the van for a cup of coffee.

Crossing the Fitzroy River

Fantastic Scenery

We then headed back to the Great Northern Highway for another planned stop at the Ngumpan Cliff Lookout Rest Area. After a minor diversion off-road we got to the lookout to find that it was closed for roadworks. We later heard that the rest area was going to be re-bituminized, and it will be fantastic when finished with great views (if not a bit exposed).

Final stop for the day was the Mary’s Pool Rest Area where we settled down for the night. Fortunately we got there quite early so we had our choice of sites and were able to secure a site facing the right way, in the sun (ie to charge the solar panel) and level. As this was a short driving day, we had plenty of time to walk around and explore the area, and then relax with our books. The weather was fantastic, in the high 20s.

Mary’s Pool is almost perfect for free camping and we will certainly stay here again if we are back in this neck of the woods.

Entry Road to Mary’s Pool Rest Area

Mary’s Pool

Mary’s Pool Rest Area

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure, Free Camping | Tags: ellendale, mary's pool

We Have Internet – Today

Posted on Thursday, July 4, 2013 by shorty

We have just arrived in Kununurra after 3 days free camping with only scratchy mobile reception and no Internet access at all. Will get things up to date later today.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure

Broome to Ellendale Rest Area [Fitzroy Crossing]

Posted on Monday, July 1, 2013 by shorty

Great weather was forecast for Broome today, and even better further east. It was time to move on so we headed east along the Great Northern Highway.

Several things struck us about today’s drive, including:

Cattle – there were many more cattle along the road today than we had seen previously, although very little in the way of road kill. They must breed them smarter in this neck of the woods.
Ant Hills – they were everywhere in all sorts of shapes and sizes from football size to distorted sumo wrestler size to cattle size and even cemetery headstone size.
Roadworks – there was plenty of activity on the roads and we had to stop and wait several times. There were massive graders, huge side operating tip trucks, and other machines cutting the grass and clearing bush on the sides of the road.
Single Lane Bridges – we crossed over two single lane bridges which surprised us considering the amount of traffic on Highway 1, and the disruption they caused to traffic flow.

Cattle & Ant Hills

Single Lane Bridge Ahead

On-coming Traffic on Single Lane Bridge

Road Sign (and Boab Tree)

Erskine Range

First stop for the day was the Nillibubbica Rest Area. Another designated free camp with a maximum 24 hour stay, this was well set up with undercover shelter, toilet, dump point, and space for plenty of travellers. Great spot.

The Boab Rest Area was similar and would be a great place to stop. We wanted to get a few more miles under our belt so we just had a quick meal break but there were others already setting up for the rest of the day and night. Highlight of this particular rest area was the huge Boab tree in the centre.

Our final destination was the Ellendale Rest Area, which is about 90 kms East of Fitzroy Crossing. Although we arrived at around 2.30 pm space was already at a premium and we were probably the second last van in for the night. But what a spot this is! We set up the awning and spent a very relaxing afternoon in absolutely perfect weather conditions (mid 20s, slight breeze, great views and a magnificent sunset).

Morning Stop – Nillibubbica Rest Area

Lunch at Boab Rest Area

Overnight at Ellendale Rest Area

Sunset at Ellendale Rest Area

Still living the dream!!!!!

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure, Free Camping | Tags: broome, ellendale, fitzroy crossing

Broome – Day 4

Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2013 by shorty

It was windy last night, so much so that I got up in the middle of the night to check that the awning outside was OK. Everything seemed to be in order so I went back to bed, but once up in the morning I added an extra tie down and some extra tent pegs just in case things got out of hand.

Today’s highlight was a Willie Creek Pearl Farm Tour. There is a bus option and a self drive option which required the use of a 4WD. So we set out in the mighty BT-50 for a stint of off-road driving. It was certainly a bit of a challenge as we haven’t done very much 4WD-ing until now, but we thought that we’d give it a go.

We started off on the bitumen for the first 20 kms or so to Willie Creek before the road surface changed to a wide, graded, red dirt road. At this stage we changed into 4WD and coped quite well with the corrugations and some mud. The surface eventually changed to a single lane sandy road, which was fine until we met a number of vehicles coming the other way!

Dirt Road to Willies Creek

One Lane Road to Willie Creek

Nearly there

After some 15 kms of dirt/sandy roads we eventually arrived at the oasis of Willies Creek Pearl Farm. Our tour guide Finn (he’s Irish) started off with a very informative and entertaining lesson on the styles of oyster that grow pearls, the anatomy of a pearl oyster, the seeding, cleaning and harvesting process, and more. We learnt that pearl meat sells for up to $500 per kilo overseas – that’s a lot of oysters though.

Arriving at Willie Creek Pearl Farm

Ann’s New Friend

Finn – Our Tour Guide

Then it was off to lunch which included some delicious Kimberly Dampier [sorry Downunda – no photos]. After lunch we boarded our “luxury cruise ship” to see some oysters in the wild and to go for a bit of a cruise around Willie Creek and surrounds. We saw a crocodile – there are known to be three in the area. Finn also pointed out many interesting examples of bird life, geological features and so on, as well as detailed some history of the area.

Boat Cruise around Willie Creek

Cleaning Oysters the Old Way

Clean and Healthy Pearl Oyster

Back on dry land it was back into the showroom for a more detailed discussion on the end result – pearl jewelry. This was also very informative and it was quite surprising at the difference in prices for the various sizes and styles of pearl. Several members of our tour actually bought some of the beautiful pearls.

Later in the afternoon we met up with our friends for another Happy Hour before returning to the fiver for the night.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: broome, willie creek

Broome – Day 3

Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2013 by shorty

After a mild night, Saturday morning started off quite fine so we headed off to the Broome Courthouse Markets, set in a large tropical garden area. What an amazing mix of stalls and individuals! Clothing, handcrafts, artwork, more clothing, charity stalls, local tour operators and so much more. Then of course there were plenty of choices when it came to food, including many Asian styles, local organic produce, and even a considerable choice of coffees. We succumbed to some incredible Indonesian treats and some Kimberley Coffee Company coffees. And there were buskers and musicians of all types, including banjo players, country and western guitarists, flautists, and more.

Artwork at Courthouse Markets

Busker at Courthouse Markets

Clothing Stalls at Courthouse Markets

Food Choices at Courthouse Markets

Relaxing at Courthouse Markets

We stayed at the market for quite some time before heading back to the fiver for lunch. Then, as the wind was increasing a bit, we decided to hang around the caravan park and attend to some more domestic pursuits. Ann caught up on some washing, which dried brilliantly in the wind, and then did a heap of cooking to tide us over the next few days which we anticipate will include several days of free camping. I spent some time trying to reduce the red colour of our caravan and was at least partially successful.

Not Quite Finished!

During the afternoon we were visited by some fellow travellers who we had met at Port Hedland Golf Club but left a couple of days after us. We later caught up with them for a Happy Hour (or two or three) under the awning of the fiver.

A great end to a great day!

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: broome

Broome – Day 2

Posted on Friday, June 28, 2013 by shorty

We played tourist today, and loved it. It was a nice change from driving and we walked and walked until we both had blisters.

Temperatures ranged between 18 and 27; mostly fine but the sky was a bit cloudy and overcast most of the day.

We spent much of the morning in the Chinatown precinct, which is very impressive. Obviously the Chinese had a major role in the early development of Broome. A number of pioneers of Broome’s cultured pearl industry are remembered in statues in Chinatown. Also of interest was the Sun Theatre which claims to be the World’s Oldest Operating Picture Gardens, originally built in 1916.

Pioneers of the Cultured Pearl Industry in Broome

Sun Picture Theatre in Chinatown

Being a tourist is hungry work, so we stopped at the Roey Hotel’s Pearlers’ Bar for lunch and a cold beer. Delicious!

Pearlers’ Bar for Lunch

This afternoon we visited the famous Cable Beach and Ann fulfilled a lifelong dream to walk on the water’s edge at Cable Beach at sunset. The overcast skies and cloud cover resulted in a less than spectacular sunset, but it was absolutely brilliant being there.

Cable Beach

Cable Beach Sunset

After the beach we returned back to the fiver where I cooked dinner on the barbeque, accompanied by a cold stubby.

Life doesn’t get much better than this.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: broome

Sandfire Roadhouse to Broome

Posted on Friday, June 28, 2013 by shorty

We were up early this morning, showered, breakfasted and away, just like everyone else at Sandfire Roadhouse.

Peacocks at Sandfire

First stop for morning coffee was the Stanley Rest Area. This was another council designated free camping area and it looked very well set-up. Toilets, dump point, under-cover areas with concrete floors, mini barbeques, and even several concrete pads for caravans. There was still a bit of water around but that wasn’t stopping the dozen or so caravans, motor-homes and campervans that were there when we stopped. Somewhere worthwhile stopping at if we are back this way again.

Stanley Rest Area

After a cup of coffee and cake, we headed back along the Great Northern Highway. We did a quick drive around the Goldwire Rest Area which again had toilets, dump point, undercover areas, etc. Still some water around but also plenty of travellers enjoying the surroundings. We would definitely consider a few nights here – in dry weather.

We stopped for lunch at the Roebuck Plains Rest Area, which is just a rest area and we wouldn’t stay there.

Finally we turned left off the Great Northern Highway onto the Broome Road for the final 30 kms or so to our overnight destination. Right away the extent of the recent rains is obvious, with water still by the sides of the road and very recent grading on both sides of the road.

Recently Graded Road to Broome

Our destination was the Broome Caravan Park. We quickly found our spot, parked the fiver, got set up with awning and floor matting, and sat down to relax. What a fantastic spot this is, and so very much different to the red dust we have been living with for much of this trip. Shorts, thongs and a t-shirt in a tropical environment sure beats jeans, muddy boots and a rain jacket. Ann couldn’t wait and everything was washed by 5.00 o’clock.

Just Landed at Broome Caravan Park

Serenity!

Welcome Party at Broome

We might have to stay here for a few months!

This post is late as I had to choose between updating the blog or taking Ann out for a barramundi dinner. Dinner won and it was fantastic.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: broome, sandfire roadhouse

Port Hedland to Sandfire Roadhouse

Posted on Wednesday, June 26, 2013 by shorty

After a warm night and a great sleep, and nice hot showers at the Golf Club, we made a few enquiries as to whether the road to Broome was open. In general the advice, and info from the internet was somewhat inconclusive – we couldn’t seem to find any really up-to-date information. We decided, like several others at the Port Hedland Golf Club, to take the chance on the roads being open, and got away about 9.45 am.

Early Morning at Port Hedland Golf Course

We weren’t far from Port Hedland when it was obvious that there was still plenty of water about, including on the road, but there wasn’t much we could do but go through it. So we did – all part of the adventure. And we did it several times! We discovered that even going slowly there was plenty of wash over the Ute and especially the windscreen, to the extent that at one point we couldn’t see anything at all and weren’t sure what direction we were going in. Fortunately the road train coming the other way saw our dilemma, slowed down to let us get back on course. The bad news is that the Ute and caravan are still a nice shade of red, despite the car wash.

Water on the Road

Water on the Road on the Ute

Zero Visibility

One interesting sight on the outskirts of Port Hedland was a cluster of large ant hills adorned with hard hats and other caps and beanies. Not sure why someone chose to do this but it was interesting anyway.

Ant Hills with Hard Hats

Continuing up the highway we were amazed by the incredible scenery in places, and also by the huge volumes of water everywhere – fortunately not on the road. Creek beds that were presumably dry for most of the year were raging torrents of frothing water. Also of interest was the number of cattle on the road. We had been warned to expect this and we had seen quite a few dead cattle by the side of the road but now we were going through herds of live cattle, and they’re not necessarily predictable in their movements.

Interesting Scenery

Water Everywhere

Cattle by the Road

For our morning break we pulled into the De Grey River Rest Area/Free Camp. The De Grey River itself was a raging torrent and there was plenty of water lying around in the rest area. This had actually been our intended destination yesterday but we’re glad that we stopped in Port Hedland rather than drive the extra distance. This is a really well appointed free camping area with a huge space, undercover areas, and two toilets (long drop) with dump points. Talking to some campers we heard that a Winnebago got bogged this morning and needed a grader to get it out. Also a couple of caravans had much better than expected river views when they woke up and had to move back as the river had risen 2 metres.

De Grey River Free Camp

After morning tea we headed up the highway to the Pardoo Roadhouse for a break for lunch. We had looked at the road going into Pardoo Station on the way but decided to pass on that, despite the very positive reviews we had seen of Pardoo Station as a destination. There was a nice looking caravan park at the Roadhouse but we thought that we had a couple of extra hours driving left today so continued up the highway after having our lunch in the caravan.

Our planned destination for the night was the Eighty Mile Beach Caravan Park. Ann actually rang them before we left Port Hedland and they had told her that the grader was out on the road now and that it should be right by the time we got there. When we reached the turnoff from the highway we stopped the Ute and got out and had a look. The road had definitely been graded but we decided that 9 kms of wet graded red dirt was probably not a great option, particularly with approaching storm clouds, so we headed on again.

Our final destination today was the Sandfire Roadhouse. Let’s just say it’s an interesting place with an interesting collection of animals and birdlife. Although there are supposedly only 9 drive through sites here, the owners have actually fitted in around 16 caravans by doubling up on the sites. We can’t leave tomorrow morning until the van in front of us moves. Still, we’re off the road and safe, we have power and internet access [no TV] and we don’t have too far to go tomorrow to get to Broome. We will sleep well tonight providing the storm clouds above keep moving!

Doubling Up at Sandfire Roadhouse Caravan Park

Interesting Birdlife at Sandfire Roadhouse

Interesting Pets at Sandfire Roadhouse

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: port hedland, sandfire roadhouse

Auski Roadhouse to Port Hedland

Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2013 by shorty

We had torrential rain nearly all night and we were relieved that we had decided not to stay at Mt Robinson Rest Area.

At about 7.20 am, I wandered down to the roadhouse “Dining“ area in time to watch the news and weather on the satellite flat screen TV. It seemed that the whole country was being subject to heavy rain. A lot of trucks and road trains had come in last night, I assume because of the wet weather, so while I was there, I had a chat to a couple of truckies who were tucking into a big cooked breakfast. They assured me that we would be OK if we were heading north as the roads are better able to cope with this sort of weather that the roads southbound. After a good laugh, we wished each other safe travel and I headed back to the van for my healthy muesli and fruit breakfast and to prepare the rig ready to move on.

Although it was wet, we were not cold and by 9.00 am it was 18 degrees and getting very humid. As we turned on to the Great Northern Highway, the mountains ahead of us were shrouded in fog. Amazing!

Packing up at Auski Roadhouse

Foggy mountains when leaving Auski Roadhouse

The road today was very busy with lots of trucks and road trains. As we progressed further up the highway we noticed more and more water and roads closed. The road to Marble Bar was closed. The first 2 rest areas that we had chosen to stop at were also closed. The scenery along the way is mountainous and breathtaking. It reminded Ann of the Hutt Valley north of Wellington in New Zealand. The Yule River was quite full and flowing.

Wide load pulled over just before we came along

Incredible scenery

As we got closer to Port Hedland, the amount of water in the rivers and creeks increased. We had a break at about 11.30 and after that the rain began again. We had planned to stay at Indee Station tonight but the 9 km dirt road was closed. Our next stop at Mundabullangana was completely full of trucks and road trains which we realized were stuck because the Coastal Highway was closed. We eventually managed to pull over and have a break but thought that we should make it a quick break and head to Port Hedland and find somewhere for the night.

That’s when the fun started. All of the free camps seemed to be under water and all Caravan Parks were full. We heard that the golf course would take any over flow but we had driven past and there was a lot of water there. Ann rang the Golf Club and they made room for us, so effectively we are free camping at a price. After a quick dash into town to top up supplies, we had happy hour with some other travelers who are also staying here and we all traded war stories from the last 24 hours. It seems that Port Hedland had the highest rainfall on record last night!

Water on the road coming into Port Hedland

Rio Tinto Salt Mine

Water, water everywhere

BHP Billiton never ending train

Anyway we are here and quite comfortable. It is currently about 27 degrees and about 75% humidity. Can’t wait to see what adventures we will face tomorrow. The road north is currently closed so we are here until that opens – hopefully tomorrow.

We have a sign in the van saying “It’s the journey, not the destination” and it has certainly been a fabulous journey so far!

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: auski roadhouse, port hedland

2013 Big Adventure

Mary’s Pool Rest Area to Dunham River Rest Area

Ellendale Rest Area to Mary’s Pool Rest Area

We Have Internet – Today

Broome to Ellendale Rest Area [Fitzroy Crossing]

Broome – Day 4

Broome – Day 3

Broome – Day 2

Sandfire Roadhouse to Broome

Port Hedland to Sandfire Roadhouse

Auski Roadhouse to Port Hedland

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