2013 Big Adventure

Barkly Homestead, NT to Mount Isa, Qld

Posted on Saturday, July 13, 2013 by shorty

I was woken by the sound of the helicopter taking off from the paddock behind us but rather than get up I was content to lie in bed looking through the open skylight over the bed and watch the leaves on the trees above change colour as the sun came up. In due course, cups of tea, breakfast and showers, not necessarily in that sequence, happened, the fiver was packed up, and we hit the highway.

We decided that today would be a driving day with Mount Isa as the final destination. It was a longer day that we generally plan for, but very doable, and certainly not the longest we have done on this trip. Basically we decided that we needed three things:

Power for the cooler
TV reception – we haven’t seen any for a few days
Shops – some supplies are running low.

Another night of station stay or free-camping just wasn’t going to do it.

Our first quick stop was to check out the Wonara Bore Rest Area where friends of ours had stayed not long ago. This is a great spot with plenty of room Our morning coffee stop was at the Souden Rest Area which is also a spot with plenty of room but also had zillions of flies!

Landscape wise today was again pretty monotonous and boring, although perhaps there were a few larger trees replacing some of the low scrub. Most of the time we generally seemed to be going uphill, which is probably not that surprising given that we are in the Barkly Tablelands. The roads aren’t that great either and the fiver bounced around a lot – cupboards opened, cushions flew about, etc.

Flat Scrubby Landscape

Flat Grassy Landscape

Avon Downs Rest Area

Avon Downs Police Station

Peace Runner

We had a look at the Avon Downs Rest Area and decided that it would be a safe place to stay, especially as it was directly opposite the Avon Downs Police Station – way out in the middle of nowhere. Suffering through all of this is a hardy band of Peace Runners who are obviously out there in the blazing heat carrying burning torches in aid of charity. Each to his own I guess!

About 30 kms from the Queensland border we hit roadworks. Nearly 10 kms of 60 kph detour along a very bumpy side road while major work took place on the Barkly Highway. Unfortunately we missed our photo opportunity at the NT-QLD border as some drop-kicks had set up camp with tables and chairs and ruined things for everyone else!

Barkly Highway Roadworks in NT

Just over the border at Camooweal we stopped in a nice shady spot for lunch, then topped up the diesel before continuing our journey. We had a coffee break at the David Hall Rest Area and later had a quick look at the WW2 Airfield Rest Area just before Mount Isa. This would be a very good option for travellers not necessarily wanting to stay in a caravan park in town. The landscape did change as we were nearing Mount Isa and hills/mountains re-appeared.

Finally we arrived at our destination – Mount Isa Caravan Park. This is an older park with plenty of character, and we have a shady drive through site, power and TV reception. And there are shops in town.

Different Landscape

Smoke Stacks in Mount Isa

Welcome to Mount Isa

Set Up in Mount Isa Caravan Park

Milestone: Our arrival at Mount Isa Caravan Park ticked over 10,010 kms travelled so far on our 2013 Big Adventure.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: barkly homestead, mount isa

Banka Banka Station to Barkly Homestead

Posted on Friday, July 12, 2013 by shorty

After beautiful hot showers and breakfast, we packed up the fiver and set off some 100 kms down the Stuart Highway to Tennant Creek.

We had no real expectations of Tennant Creek and would have to say that once arriving there it was somewhat underwhelming. We passed the John Flynn monument near Threeways Roadhouse and Caravan Park and continued down the highway; down the main street; did a U-turn and headed back to Threeways where we topped up the diesel and had our morning coffee.

At Threeways we turned off the Stuart Highway onto the Barkly Highway and headed East.

John Flynn Monument

Arriving at Tennant Creek

Main Street of Tennant Creek

Threeways Roadhouse

Way to Go

After driving through some 230 kms of pretty monotonous landscape, we arrived at our destination – Barkly Homestead – arriving in time for a late lunch. We have learnt from experience that we really need to arrive at our nightly destination sometime between 1.00 pm and 2.00 pm in order to get a really good spot. It doesn’t matter if you are free camping or staying at a caravan park, but get there much after 2.00 pm and you may have difficulty getting a good spot, or sometimes even a spot at all. The situation is made worse by many places not taking phone bookings and relying on the first in first served basis.

Anyway, we got here at a good time and had a good selection of wide drive through spots to choose from. They are gravel, which is sometimes a good thing, and well shaded, and importantly, level.

Arriving at Barkly Homestead

Lush Gardens at Barkly Homestead

Reading in the Shade with Paddocks Behind

After lunch, we settled down in our chairs for awhile then went for an explore. This is a very well thought out place and development is continuing. It is still a working station but they have approached the tourism aspect quite seriously and professionally. Amenities are great and they are adding more new facilities; they have a good shop and café and some nice mementos of your visit – I bought a very nice Barkly Homestead polo shirt. We enjoyed afternoon tea in the shady bar area before continuing our walk – we even saw a helicopter landing in the paddock behind the caravan.

Then it was back to the fiver for a light dinner and then catch up on blogs, phone calls and email.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: banka banka station, barkly homestead

Daly Waters to Banka Banka Station

Posted on Thursday, July 11, 2013 by shorty

Despite our night of entertainment at the Pub, we awoke refreshed after a good night’s sleep and set to breakfast and packing up the fiver. As it turned out, the Pub’s caravan park was quite full and we had to wait for a few other vehicles to leave before we could escape.

Once back on the highway, it was interesting to watch the changing scenery. At times there were dense plantations of healthy green trees growing right up to the roadway, whereas at other times the trees thinned out markedly. In general the terrain was quite flat with gentle undulations – not great for fuel economy but better than rolling hills or mountain ranges.

Changing Landscape

Our first stop for coffee was at the Newcastle Waters Rest Area, which was very well set-up and very popular. As an over-nighter for us maybe not, given our size, but for smaller motorhomes and campervans there would probably be a good selection of spots to choose from.

After Newcastle Waters the landscape changed again with the trees making way for plenty of dead, dried scrub and much more dusty and rocky soil.

View from Newcastle Waters Rest Area

Dead Scrub

Rocky Landscape

We stopped for fuel at Elliot and later stopped for a stretch at Renner Springs Roadhouse. This had been our intended overnight destination as there is a caravan park behind the roadhouse, but we had been making good time so we decided to press on a bit further today and save some driving time tomorrow.

Further down the highway the landscape seemed to change again, with a sudden rocky outcrop standing out in the generally flat terrain. We also saw a huge plume of what we assume was smoke on the horizon. Hopefully we’ll hear more about it in due course.

Renner Springs Roadhouse

Changing Landscape

Looks Like Smoke

Some 60 kms from Renner Springs we arrived at Banka Banka Station. Followers of our blog will be aware that we like to stay on farms, certainly in preference to camping behind roadhouses, so this was ideal accommodation for us tonight. We much prefer the sight and sounds of cattle and sheep to those of road trains, diesel and exhaust fumes at a roadhouse. Just after we arrived, three large trucks arrived to disgorge their cargo of cattle. This is very much a working station.

Although there is no power, there is abundant spring water available and the caravan sites are large and grassy. There are several short bush walks around the station and plenty of interesting artifacts and bits of old equipment around and even the original Banka Banka Homestead, which was restored a few years ago.

After setting up the van and awning, we happily sat and read for a while and chatted to some of our new neighbours. Ann also did a load of washing which only cost $2 and it was dry in a couple of hours.

Arriving at Banka Banka Station

Unloading Cattle

Banka Banka Station Caravan Park

Banka Banka Homestead and Farm Buildings

Interesting Furniture at Banka Banka

Banka Banka Laundry

Banka Banka is a great spot.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: banka banka station, daly waters pub

Katherine to Daly Waters Pub

Posted on Wednesday, July 10, 2013 by shorty

We have just got back from a fabulous night out at the Daly Waters Pub, in Daly Waters, NT. Actually, we’ve been longer at the pub than it took us to get here from Katherine!

This morning was coolish, but soon heated up, so we got going reasonably early.

Morning tea was at Mataranka. We pulled over and had a bit of a wander through town before returning to the van for coffee and cake. Among other things Mataranka is popular for its world’s biggest termite mound!

Tony’s New Friend at Mataranka

Streescape at Mataranka

Speaking of which, there were plenty of termite mounds, or ant hills – we’re not sure which is which or if there is any difference – along the road today. Once again they are of all sorts of different styles, heights and sizes, but interestingly every kilometre or so we would come across an ant hill wearing a hat, or sunglasses, or a t-shirt, or some other article of clothing. Some ant hills even had arms. No idea who did this but it adds to the adventure anyway!

We arrived at the Daly Waters Historic Pub for a late lunch. Check in for the caravan park is at the pub, at a very reasonable $12 per person per night for a powered site, no water though, and we were escorted to our site. Amenities are clearly not to everyone’s taste and we will probably shower in the caravan tomorrow!

Daly Waters Pub Caravan Park

Daly Waters Pub

Daly Waters Streetscape

The big feature here is the beef and barramundi dinner, again at a very reasonable cost. We chose the 6 o’clock sitting, partly because from experience everything is a lot fresher earlier in the night.

After setting up the fiver, we went for a quick walk around town – and it is quick because apart from the pub there is basically a service station and gift shop with a helicopter on the roof, a museum and an artist’s gallery. We inspected the museum which included a lot of historical aviations photos, and spent quite a bit of time chatting to Kevin Rogers, the Daly Waters artist in residence. He has some amazing artwork and photos!

As the temperature was somewhere in the high 30s, we headed off to the pub for Happy Hour in the shaded beer garden starting at 4.30 pm – they like a drink or two in the NT and start early.

There was live entertainment from 4.30 pm and it was all fantastic. First up was Col who was an acoustic country singer with some covers and originals and some great jokes. He was followed at 6.00 pm by Steve Still Rocking who did more rock and roll type material from the 50s, 60s and 70s and had the crowd singing along and dancing. Did I mention that most of the crowd were baby boomers/grey nomads like us?

The barramundi dinner was delicious!

The main act at 7.30 pm was “Chilli” and he was amazing. Great banter and jokes, plus original songs accompanied by a power point show that had you laughing one minute and almost crying the next.

Col at Daly Waters Pub

Steve Still Rocking at Daly Waters Pub

Chilli at Daly Waters Pub

Finally, after 5 hours at the pub it was back to the fiver for coffee and a big sleep before tomorrow’s adventures.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: daly waters pub, katherine

Timber Creek to Katherine

Posted on Tuesday, July 9, 2013 by shorty

The difference in the time zone change from WA to NT was abundantly obvious this morning. At 6.00 am yesterday at Lake Argyle, there was full day-light and people were up and about cooking breakfast, using the laundry, packing up their caravans to move on to their next destination, and so on. Today at Timber Creek, it was still quite dark at 7.30 am and there was barely any activity in the caravan park at all.

So were up a bit later than previously but still managed to shower, breakfast and pack up the fiver and get on the road at a reasonable hour.

Weather wise today was stinking hot and driving was not enjoyable at all! We even drove some of he way with the air-con turned on – something we generally try to avoid.

Driving wise, we had been warned about mad NT drivers and today we saw them all – overtaking on blind corners and crests of hills, going over double lines, etc. The road rules simply don’t seem to apply here at all. Talking of road kill, unlike the previous week or so, there was a lot more road kill on the road; mainly small kangaroos or perhaps wallabies. Fortunately no stinking dead cattle!

We have still not become blasé about the amazing scenery that we pass through every day – it really is amazing and I can assure everyone that our photos simply do not do Mother Nature justice.

More Amazing Scenery

First stop for diesel and coffee was at the Victoria River Roadhouse. The cost of diesel was 12 cents per litre cheaper than at Timber Creek, and the caravan park behind the roadhouse looked pretty good too. We would probably stay here next time rather than at Timber Creek.

Victoria River Roadhouse

I Seem to do this Much Too Often

Scenery from Victoria River Roadhouse

Lunch was at the Vince Connoly Crossing Rest Area, which was rapidly filling up with free-campers. This was about 1.00 pm. We almost (repeat almost) felt guilty about taking up a spot while having lunch and preventing someone else getting in and setting up for the night. It did look quite a good free camping spot and was obviously popular!

After lunch it was only about another hour before we reached Katherine, and it has changed quite a lot since we were last here over 15 years ago. At our friend Faye’s recommendation we had phoned ahead and booked a spot at the Shady Lane Tourist Park, and were very glad that we had booked as other vans were being turned away!

This is a very lush, tropical caravan park and we have a great drive through powered site close to the amenities block and the swimming pool.

Welcome to Katherine

Main Street of Katherine

Welcome to Shady Lane Tourist Park

After unhitching and setting up the awning, and turning on the air-con, we drove into town for a look around. We visited The Coffee Club and treated ourselves to some freshly brewed coffees and fattening treats. It was very cool inside so afternoon tea took quite a while! We then headed off to explore the town.

After returning to the fiver we made sure that all the windows were open to take advantage of the cool breeze that had sprung up. We then went for a wander around the park before I cooked tea, outside on the fiver’s slide out BBQ, which was accompanied by salad and a crisp white wine and eaten outside.

BBQing at Shady Lane Tourist Park

The mozzies eventually came out to join us so we retired inside to catch up on emails and this blog, and watch a bit of TV.

We’re heading South tomorrow – we’re not visiting Darwin on this trip – and we’re not sure if we will have phone or internet access.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: katherine, timber creek

Lake Argyle WA to Timber Creek NT

Posted on Monday, July 8, 2013 by shorty

Last night was quite different to previous nights as there was no cooling breeze to off-set the heat. It made getting up early just that bit easier, and we were fully packed up and on our way by 8.30 am.

Leaving Lake Argyle we again marveled at the spectacular scenery, especially as we made our way back to the Victoria Highway.

On the Road Again

Spectacular WA Scenery

Back on the highway it was only a relatively short distance to the WA/NT Border. It was totally underwhelming! Whereas all traffic going into WA was stopped and searched by quarantine people, apart from having to slow down to 80 kph, we just kept driving into NT although we did stop for a photo opportunity. Although the roads aren’t wonderful and are quite narrow and winding, the speed limit in NT is 130 kph! Crazy!

WA NT Border

130 kph Speed Limit in NT

Our first morning break was at Saddle Creek Rest Area, which had been recommended to us by fellow travellers at Lake Argyle. We would definitely stay here. We also had a quick look at the East Baines River Rest Area which was also recommended and it looked very suitable for free camping as well.

Morning Break at Saddle Creek Rest Area

The scenery in NT is spectacular but has changed from what we had become used to in WA. For a start, the mountains seemed to be formed differently and the rocks appear to be quite different. Plus there is what seems to be “normal” grassland which would seem to be suitable for grazing, and we did see some large herds of cattle. As in WA, there are also signs of huge burning off which usually seems to promote new green growth. Ant hills (or maybe termite mounds) are everywhere, as are those peculiar looking boab trees.

Spectacular NT Scenery

Grasslands not Rocks

Burning Off

Our final destination for the day was Timber Creek, which is only a small place but has two servos and two caravan parks, plus a few assorted shops. As we are close to the Victoria River, the caravan park is green and tropical. There is even a swimming pool here, although there are also crocodiles around so we don’t think we’ll be going anywhere near the water despite the 30+ degree heat

We have spent the afternoon under the awning with a cool drink and a good book, still wondering what the time is. It’s tough being a traveller sometimes!

Arriving at Timber Creek

Caravan Parks Backs on to Victoria River

We Won’t Go Swimming Here!

Tomorrow we will be heading North East towards Katherine, and may, again, be out of phone and internet contact.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: lake argyle, timber creek

Lake Argyle – Day 3

Posted on Monday, July 8, 2013 by shorty

We were in no real hurry to get started today so after breakfast I had another go at reducing the pink hue of the Ute and Fifth Wheeler, while Ann did some washing (which was dry in a couple of hours).

After lunch in the fiver, we joined the “Kimberley Durack Sunset Explorer Cruise on Lake Argyle”.

WOW !!!!!

Things started off with a very informative DVD on the construction of the Ord River Scheme way back in the 1960s and 1970s. How visionary those responsible for this project were! Kimberley Durack first proposed a dam on the Ord River in the 1950s on the Durack family’s Argyle Station. It took a while to get underway and the experts who were brought in relocated the dam wall a little way from the originally proposed site, but the foresight to build this project was quite incredible.

After the DVD we boarded a bus for a quick drive over the dam wall with further expert commentary from John, the driver and then disembarking from the bus and boarding the “Kimberley Durack” tour boat at Bamboo Cove.

Graham, our tour guide, was extremely knowledgeable about the Ord River, the general Lake Argyle area, the irrigation and hydro electric programs and more, plus he showed us a few of his wildlife friends along the way. He also showed us some photos he had taken during the “double wet” in 2011 when they had twice the usual rainfall and staff were trapped at Lake Argyle Resort for 10 days. He had some great real life stories to recount which made the tour all that more interesting.

During the cruise we had afternoon tea and later stopped so several hardy explorers could go for a swim in Lake Argyle. We also enjoyed nibbles and a glass of champagne whilst watching the sunset. Strangely, there was Telstra mobile phone reception out in the middle of the Lake some 30 km from the Argyle Diamond Mine but very few passengers had bothered to take their phones with them.

Then it was back to Lake Argyle Resort where we enjoyed a “Christmas in July” roast dinner with trifle for desert. We finished the evening off with an extended chat to some fellow Victorian travellers who are going in the opposite direction to us. It was great to be able to swap notes as to what lies ahead.

Finally it was back to the fiver for coffee and an early night.

Lake Argyle Tour

Wildlife

Lake Argyle Tour

Wildlife

Lake Argyle Reflections

Lake Argyle Serenity

Lake Argyle Tour Passengers

Lake Argyle Tour Passenger

Sunset at Lake Argyle

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: lake argyle

Lake Argyle – Day 2

Posted on Monday, July 8, 2013 by shorty

Another day in paradise on Saturday! We made a leisurely start and did not much at all before lunch.

After a delicious lunch in the van, we jumped into the Ute and went for a bit of a drive around paradise. Lake Argyle is huge and there are a number of lookouts and other opportunities to view the wide expanses of water that just seem to go on forever. All against a spectacular rocky landscape over a billion years old and a beautiful clear blue sky.

Lake Argyle

Lake Argyle – Dam Wall

Lake Argyle

Lake Argyle – Rear of Dam Wall

Later in the afternoon we visited the Argyle Downs Museum. The original Argyle Downs Homestead was built by Patsy Durack in 1895, and the Durack family played an important role in the development of this area. The homestead was relocated to it current site in 1971 to avoid being flooded by the waters of Lake Argyle. Apparently every rock was numbered and transported in 44 gallon drums and then the homestead was painstakingly reassembled to the original plans using the original materials. Even a number of historically significant headstones were relocated.

While we were at the homestead there was a visit by several members of the Durack family, several of whom now reside interstate and overseas and including Donald Durack who was just a youngster when the site of the original home was flooded. He gave the volunteer guides a bit of a thrill by identifying events in several photos that were on display – apparently his brother had taken some of the photos and Donald was able to recall where and under what circumstances the photos had been taken.

We later gave Jan, another visitor to the homestead, a lift back to the caravan park and she told us that she had bought several books written by members of the Durack family and had had them signed by Donald and other members of the family. She was very excited about her day.

Argle Homestead

Gravestones in Argyle Homestead Garden

On our return to the caravan park we sat outside and enjoyed some live music in the beer garden over a cool drink or two before Ann whipped up another delicious dinner in the fiver. One great thing about this place is that there don’t seem to be the annoying flies and mozzies that we have found at other places, so sitting outside is generally very pleasant.

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: lake argyle

Kununurra to Lake Argyle

Posted on Monday, July 8, 2013 by shorty

After another glorious warm starry night, on Friday morning we packed up and were ready to hit the road early.

We turned off the Victoria Highway about 35 km from Kununurra for Lake Argyle. The scenery for the next 40 km or so was spectacular, and being behind a slower vehicle meant that we could get a decent look at our surroundings.

By 10.30 am we were booked in at Lake Argyle Resort and Caravan Park, unhitched and having a cuppa under the awning.

And that’s pretty much all we did all day except go for a walk around the caravan park! When you’re in paradise, doing nothing much is a great thing to do.

The Lake Argyle Resort is quite large and offers waterfront sites, luxury cabins, eco-tents, plus standard cabins and other powered and un-powered sites. It has great facilities and serves as the base for many of the cruises and flights around the Lake. Fishing is a popular pastime and quite a number of caravans and motorhomes in the caravan park have come equipped with boats of all sizes. The caravan park is actually the site of the work camp built for the construction of the Ord River Dam, and is now being further developed for tourism.

We really do have a fantastic site here but most sites are great and there has been a lot of planning and infrastructure invested in this Resort. All of this complimented by temperatures in the high 20s, clear deep blue skies, tropical gardens, sensational views and good friendly company. The only down side is that there is no mobile, internet or TV reception.

We have promised ourselves that we will come back here again!

Interesting Facts:

Lake Argyle is classed as an inland sea, covering over 1,000 square kilometres, and up to 2,000 square kilometres at flood capacity!
Lake Argyle is the largest body of fresh water in Australia and the largest man-made lake in the Southern hemisphere.
It was formed by the damming of the Ord River in 1971 and acts as a reservoir for the irrigation scheme in Kununurra.
Its hydro-electric plant supplies power for Kununurra, Wyndham and the Argyle Diamond Mine.
It is estimated to contain 25,000 crocodiles, 26 species of native fish, and one third of Australia’s bird species.

Turn Off Victoria Highway

Magnificent Scenery

Set Up at Lake Argyle Resort

Bar & Beer Garden at Lake Argyle Resort

Infinity Swimming Pool at Lake Argyle Resort

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: kununurra, lake argyle

Dunham River Rest Area to Kununurra

Posted on Thursday, July 4, 2013 by shorty

We needed the doona again last night but by 7.30 am it was starting to warm up considerably.

One advantage of yesterday’s long drive was that we didn’t have too far to go this morning to Kununurra.

Dunham Creek Rest Area at Sunrise

Decisions, decisions, decisions

Fantastic Scenery

There was only one minor snag – we didn’t actually have anywhere confirmed to stay. Ann had made calls to several caravan parks from Broome and most had said that they would fit us in somewhere, but the story had changed when we actually arrived today and there was apparently nowhere for us to stay. One factor is probably that next week is the Kununurra Show – something we hadn’t anticipated.

However, a phone call to the Kununurra Tourist Information Centre was answered by a very helpful person who did a ring around and called back in a few minutes with a place for us at the Discovery Big 4 Caravan Park on the lake. What fantastic service and what a fantastic spot it turned out to be!!! We would recommend this place to anyone as the staff could not have been more helpful!

Bridge Works Entering Kununurra

Just Unhitched at Big4 Kununurra

After 3 nights free camping, which features quick showers in the fiver, we took the opportunity to treat ourselves to long (normal) hot showers on arrival – and Ann could use her hair dryer!

After this we headed off into town for a good look around. It’s an interesting place and a bit bigger than we thought, with some great looking schools and community and sporting facilities. Ann drooled window shopping in the Argyle Champagne Diamond shop.

For lunch we headed off to the Pumphouse Café which is in walking distance from the caravan park. The building was the original water pumping station for Kununurra but was decommissioned in 1972 when the Ord River Scheme was expanded. We were amazed at the hundreds of fish to be seen from the balcony – not to mention the breath-taking views over Lake Kununurra. This really is a tough life.

Hundreds of Fish at Pumphouse Cafe

Views from Pumphouse Cafe Balcony

Pumphouse Cafe

Back at the caravan park we joined other travellers by the lake for Happy Hour which seems to start at about 4.00 o’clock here. We enjoyed drinks and nibbles by the water and were joined by George, the resident fresh water crocodile. Boy were the cameras snapping then!! No-one was game to even consider a swim after meeting George.

Don’t Swim Here – Crocodiles in the Water

George the Crocodile

Ann and George

Closeup of George the Freshwater Crocodile

It is just after 9.00 pm as I write this and we still have all the windows open as it is still a very pleasant 25 degrees. Oh what a life!

Categories: 2013 Big Adventure | Tags: dunham river, kununurra

2013 Big Adventure

Barkly Homestead, NT to Mount Isa, Qld

Banka Banka Station to Barkly Homestead

Daly Waters to Banka Banka Station

Katherine to Daly Waters Pub

Timber Creek to Katherine

Lake Argyle WA to Timber Creek NT

Lake Argyle – Day 3

Lake Argyle – Day 2

Kununurra to Lake Argyle

Dunham River Rest Area to Kununurra

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